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5 - 16 May 2013.
Fairly cloudy, hot and humid with a few rain showers, occasionally heavy.
Sri Phang-nga National Park, Khlong Saeng Wildlife Sanctuary, Khao Phra Bang Khram Wildlife Sanctuary (Khao Nor Chuchi), Khao Luang National Park (Krung Ching), Satun Mangroves, Yaring Mangrove Research Station, Pha Phru Sirinthon Peat Swamp Preserve and Hala-Bala Wildlife Sanctuary.

Abbott's Babbler - Sri Phang-nga

05 Jun. With everyone meeting up at 05:00 start we started the couple of hours drive to Sri Phang-nga. Overcast and cool with occasional rain showers. We first stopped outside the park to walk the entrance road searching for Blue-winged Pitta, of which only one distant bird heard. The rest of the morning spent inside the park along the track to the parking area, and the two trails leading from there. Noted that this access track is now closed for vehicles until 08:00, but can be accessed on foot. On the walk-in Blue-eared Kingfisher seen briefly, and a couple of flybys of Malaysian Blue-banded Kingfsher, but no sign of either our two main targets - Malayan Banded Pitta and Western Hooded Pitta.

Mystery Apus swift at Khlong Saeng

During our boat ride across across to Khlong Saeng whilst scanning for raptors, we noticed a small group of, maybe ten, larger swifts sufficiently interesting to stop the boat for a closer look. We'd already seen the usual Edible-nest Swiftlet and Palm Swift, but these birds were obviously larger and obviously an Apus Swift. Naturally our first thoughts were that they were migratory Pacific Swift, so we checked the rumps on these birds. Interestingly the rump was concolourous with the back, so these birds were effectively an all dark swift. The light was excellent, at 17:00 in the afternoon, with the sun behind us. We watched them make repeated passes for a couple of minutes at ranges of about 100 metres, some passing below the line of the distant forest, so against a dark background. All observers, experienced birders, agreed these were largish, all dark, Apus swifts. Cook's Swift was another thought, as the rump on Cook's can be difficult to see unless seen well. However, given the good views, these were clearly not Cook's. These birds were black all over, not brown or brownish. Size we estimated at slightly smaller than Cook's/Pacific, or maybe just the same size. It would seem bizarre to consider Dark-rumped Swift in the first week of June in the south. The only other vague possibility could have been the pekinensis form of Common Swift, but these are distinctly brownish in good light. Could there be an undescribed swift in the limestone karst of this area?

Later discussion (P. Round, pers. comm.) has revealed a similar encounter in nearby Khao Sok in 1984, where rather distant swifts were thought to have dark rumps. It should be noted that the presence of Cook's Swift in this area was confirmed in 2011, where it presumably breeds. However, given the good views obtained, these birds would not be confused with Cook's, which always shows a narrow white rump when seen well. Evidently further investigation is required.

After a quick lunch at the park café proceeded to Ratchaprapha Dam where we boarded our pre-arranged boat across the lake to the Khlong Saeng Wildlife Sanctuary. A couple of hours across the lake gave us Stork-billed Kingfisher, several Lesser Fish Eagle, Blue-eared Kingfisher and at least three Western Osprey, as well as a family of Smooth Otter. We also recorded a small group of all dark Apus swift, which were seen very well but remain a mystery. Overnight at one of the floating lakeside accommodations. After dinner took a 45 minute night trip to the end of the lake and back, but little found other than a few Sambar Deer and a nocturnal Blue-winged Pitta heard.

Smooth Otter - Khlong Saeng

Little Banded Yeoman - Khlong Saeng

Black-throated Babbler - Krung Ching

Brown Wood Owl - Krung Ching

White-banded Wolf Snake

This proved to be very successful with a male seen near a lek and calling strongly. We spent a couple of hours in the same area with a string of interesting species including a very excitable Malaysian Hawk-Cuckoo, Checker-throated Woodpecker, Western Hooded Pitta and Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo. Around 13:30 we started back, finding both Rufous-winged Philentoma and Maroon-breasted Philentoma. Arrived back at the accommodation sweaty, muddy and exhausted, so dived into the lake for a swim and cool down. A late afternoon return across the lake was not very productive, with only Lesser Fish Eagle and White-bellied Sea Eagle of note. Drove to Surat Thani and checked into a roadside resort for a welcome beer.

07 Jun. Left at 05:00 to continue the drive to Krung Ching, where we arrived around 07:00. All morning and early afternoon birding the Krung Ching Waterfall Trail, walking the three kilometres from the entrance as far as Sala 3 and back. Although overcast, the weather meant birding was productive throughout the day and resulted in some excellent finds - Malaysian Blue-banded Kingfsher several times, a couple of Diard's Trogon, Rail-babbler, Black Hornbill, Fluffy-backed Tit-Babbler, Malayan Banded Pitta and Maroon-breasted Philentoma. Late afternoon scanning trees around the HQ and bus-stop areas gave us Wallace's Hawk-Eagle, Sooty Barbet, Lesser Green Leafbird, Green Broadbill and Crimson-breasted Flowerpecker. Evening spotlighting after 19:00 was not really productive, but did provide excellent views of Brown Wood Owl.

08 Jun. Awoken at 04:00 by a rustling in the litter bin. Normally these nocturnal rummagings, whilst sounding like an huge porcupine or similar, turn out to be cockroaches or geckos. This time however, switching on the light revealed a medium sized black and white snake emerging from the bin. Oh damn, what to do now. Reached for the camera, but by then it was behind the cupboard. Waited half an hour for it to emerge, but clearly it was settled there, so back to bed to wait for the morning. After breakfast, we coaxed it out with the aid of a long stick and it eventually headed up the wall into the roof. Later identification concluded it to be White-banded Wolf Snake and indeed quite arboreal judging from its climbing skills. A couple of hours spent in the open areas around the park HQ area, with Streak-breasted Woodpecker, Black Eagle, Rufous-bellied Eagle, Wallace's Hawk-Eagle, Barred Buttonquail, Black-bellied Malkoha, Red-bearded Bee-eater, White-crowned Hornbill, Large Woodshrike and Lesser Cuckooshrike. Drove to Khlong Thom, stopping at rice fields on route south of Nakhon Sri Thammarat where a big surprise was a White-headed Munia mixed in with Chestnut Munia, White-rumped Munia and Baya Weaver. Also a Watercock and several Oriental Pratincole. Arrived at Khao Nor Chuchi by 16:30 and took a late afternoon walk in areas outside the sanctuary, with Black-thighed Falconet, Black/Rufous-backed Dwarf Kingfisher, Green Broadbill and Blue-winged Pitta the highlights.

09 Jun. Out again to Khao Nor Chuchi, walking trails A and B inside the sanctuary. We also tried Trail F but found it to be overgrow, much like most of the boardwalks and stream bridges - in need of maintenance and repair, as common in all parks and sanctuaries in Thailand. The birding, as expected in Khao Nor Chuchi, was slow-going, but three to four hours gave us Moustached Hawk-Cuckoo, Ferruginous Babbler, Malayan Black-capped Babbler, Rufous-crowned Babbler, Malayan Banded Pitta and Red-crowned Barbet. Also Thick-billed Spiderhunter - a personal milestone of 800 species seen in Thailand. After, John returned to work and four of us continued to Satun where we visited mangrove areas south of town. Our first stop produced a pair of Cinereous Tit and Copper-throated Sunbird. A subsequent look at beach scrub produced another pair of Cinereous Tit but little else. Drove, through some heavier rain, to Hat Yai and checked in to a roadside resort.

10 Jun. Left 06:00 to drive to Yaring Mangrove Research Station where we had Mangrove Blue Flycatcher, Laced Woodpecker, Ashy Tailorbird, Malaysian Pied Fantail and Mangrove Whistler. On to Narathiwat airport to pick up Paul and onward to Pha Phru Sirinthon Preserve. Since our last visit, three years ago, the boardwalk has been repaired, so at least we didn't fall through it, though many areas are again rotted and in need of fixing. The opening hours of 08:00 to 16:30 are poor from a birding perspective, but we found Malaysian Blue Flycatcher. Drove to Su-ngai Kolok to stock up on essentials for our time at Hala-Bala. On the drive in we recorded several Javan Myna. The late afternoon spent by the river below the station, seeing Violet Cuckoo, Black-and-red Broadbill and Grey-and-buff Woodpecker, but not the hoped-for Bat Hawk. On a short night walk down from station we heard Reddish Scops Owl, Collared Scops Owl and Brown Boobook.

11 Jun. We started the day with the first of many river crossings, wading across to Trail 1500, affectionately referred to as the Leech Trail. Unfortunately much of this trail is now inaccessible due to tree falls, so a rough side trail was taken climbing up the side of the valley for a few hundred metres, with another stream crossing.

Lesser False Vampire Bat - Khao Nor Chuchi

Malaysian Blue Flycatcher - Pha Phru Sirinthon

Javan Myna - Hala-Bala

White-crowned Hornbill - Hala-Bala

Black-winged Flycatcher-shrike - Hala-Bala

Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo - Hala-Bala

Yellow-eared Spiderhunter - Hala-Bala

At dusk, at least 1,000 Brown-backed Needletail came to a roost behind the HQ, with an impressive doughnut-shaped cloud of swirling needletails. Just after dark a commotion around the camp with rangers running and shouting turned out to be the escape of a previously captured illegal logger who'd managed to flea.

13 Jun. The group split up this morning; one half having a four hour wait for Helmeted Hornbill to return to its nest and the other birding the roadside between the HQ and Siriphum Waterfall - the walk producing Blyth's Hawk-Eagle, Lesser Cuckooshrike, Crested Jayshrike, Chestnut-naped Forktail and Brown-streaked Flycatcher. The afternoon spent on lower sections of the road farther toward Dto Mo searching for Temminck's Sunbird which was unfortunately not found. Scaly-breasted Bulbul was a good substitute though. The final hour by the river again waiting unsuccessfully for Bat Hawk, although Buffy Fish Owl flew in at dusk.

14 Jun. With Steve heading to the airport we decided to work the other end of Trail 1500, so another wade across the river. As little of the trail remains open here, much standing around, listening and hoping. Very quiet, with little of note, though we were surprised to hear White-fronted Scops Owl calling mid morning, but could not locate it. Walked Trail 500 en route back but nothing in the heat of the day. Afternoon again along the main road, finishing at the concrete banking with a splendid view across the valley. The final hour here was chosen as an excellent vantage point for Bat Hawk, but we saw only fly-over Rhinoceros Hornbill and Great Hornbill. Returned to our accommodation to find we were now sharing with 40 youths on a camping trip, none of whom appeared to have any inclination to treat a wildlife sanctuary as a place of nature, peace and relaxation.

15 Jun. Our last full day at Hala-Bala, with a concerted effort targeting some difficult species. Back across the river onto Trail 1500, this time walking a side trail branching off right and following the side of a valley. Habitat here looked very good, with the trail ending after a kilometre or so at what looked to be a researcher's overnight bivouac/camping site. Large Wren-Babbler and Red-naped Trogon was the highlight of the morning - the later a bird we'd been searching hard for the last four days. Following lunch, back across the river again to set up a hide at one of the gullies used as a bird bath. A couple of hours mid afternoon was rewarded with Finsch's Bulbul, Malayan Swamp Babbler, Scaly-crowned Babbler, Brown Fulvetta and a brief visit by the highly sought-after Rufous-chested Flycatcher. The final hour again at the river with, finally, a single Bat Hawk seen briefly at 18:30.

16 Jun. A couple of hours along the road, adding Great Iora and Yellow-eared Spiderhunter to our Hala-Bala list - now over 150 species in five days. Additionally we heard distant Siamang but not unfortunately viewable. Drove to Narathiwat airport for flights home.