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27 Oct - 11 Nov 2016
Wet. Cloudy with rain, sometimes heavy. Becoming drier moving north. Humid.
Khao Phra Thaeo Non-hunting Area, Khlong Nakha Wildlife Sanctuary, Sri Phang-nga National Park, Kuiburi National Park, Sai Yok Noi Waterfall, Sai Yok National Park, Khao Laem National Park and Laem Phak Bia / Pak Thale.

Phuket Pit Viper

As usual, quiet bird wise but Banded Bay Cuckoo, Oriental Bay Owl and Sunda Scops Owl heard along the way. As the last kilometre of this climb is steep and slippery, we were sweating profusely by the time we reached the summit, at just over 400 metres, around 20:15. Disappointingly no bent-toed geckos could be found, but we did encounter Malayan Frilly Gecko and Phuket Horned Lizard. On the descent we encountered Phuket Pit Viper, a species we'd been seeking for years. Near the trail entrance a well armed hunter was just arriving. Non-hunting Area? Sure, it's Thailand. Finally out of the forest by 22:20, after which a very welcome beer.

Ta Pan Temple statue

30 Oct. Left Phuket at 10:30 and drove to Phang-nga with a short stop at Ta Pan Cave Temple to check its potential for herps. Looked promising, as the cave behind the temple had access, but recent rains meant flooding had left sediment and thick wet mud throughout, so no easy access today. Earmarked for a return visit in the dry season. The temple grounds though, with their grotesque and macabre statues depicting hell provided an interesting aside.

Next drove two hours to Suk Samran in Ranong province, where we checked the forest access near Don Gloei Waterfall and the nearby ranger station of Khlong Nakha Wildlife Sanctuary.

Although a Nature Trail starts from the ranger station, as usual in Thai parks and sanctuaries it was unmaintained and impassible after the first 50 metres. In overcast and cool conditions, only Vernal Hanging Parrot, Grey-rumped Treeswift and Baker's Bulbul seen. With an hour of so to spare we retraced our steps a few kilometres and checked the area around Suan Mai Waterfall - part of Sri Phang-nga National Park.

On a late, short walk to the waterfall found Green Keelback. Talking to the ranger we obtained permission to return after dark to look for reptiles and amphibians. Headed back to Suk Samran to find accommodation and dinner. After dark, and suitably refreshed, headed back to Khlong Nakha where we were surprised to find several Ranong Bent-toed Gecko within an hour of looking, though all were notably skittish. A couple of Oriental Bay Owl calling. Back to Suan Mai Waterfall by 21:00 where, with impeccable timing, the rain started the moment we arrived and continued till 23:00 when we left. Perseverance in the rain paid off though, with a fair number of species found - Tenasserim Cascade Frog, Four-lined Tree Frog, Hose's Frog and Blue Krait. No calling night birds on account of the weather.

31 Oct. Although we'd earmarked some time for butterflies at Khlong Nakha, unfavourable conditions of a damp and overcast morning with light rain meant we skipped it and headed north. This didn't really help though, as a regional front meant we simply drove the whole day through rain. Breaking the journey we stopped south of Chumphon, at Sanuk Temple where in the caves we had fleeting glimpses of Sanuk Bent-toed Gecko. Continued our drive north as far as Prachuap Khiri Khan where we decided to check out a friend's recommendation for a restaurant allegedly serving the best pizza in the world, only to find it closed for a week! Overnight in Prachuap Khiri Khan.

1 Nov. Heavy rain all night, followed by a wet drive all morning to Pala-U where we continued another hour to a ranger station of Kuiburi National Park. Given the amount of rainfall over the previous week, the access road up to the station was difficult even with a good 4x4.

Green Keelback

Ranong Bent-toed Gecko

Tenasserim Cascade Frog

Bronzed Drongo

Oriental Whip Snake

2 Nov. Although grey and overcast early morning the forecast seemed reasonable so a return to Kuiburi ranger station, where we left the vehicle and walked in. Spent the whole day walking the track, over the ridge, as far as the first river crossing and return. In good birding conditions with only a few light showers and even a couple of sunny spells we amassed a fair selection of species. A large fruiting tree on the ridge had several Great Hornbill and many Asian Fairy-bluebird, barbets, and Vernal Hanging Parrot, but surprisingly not the sought-after Blue-rumped Parrot. Our list throughout the day included Japanese Sparrowhawk, Oriental Honey Buzzard, Jerdon's Baza, Black Baza, Ferruginous Partridge heard, Mountain Hawk-Eagle, Grey-faced Buzzard, Moustached Hawk-Cuckoo, Collared Owlet, Wreathed Hornbill, White-browed Piculet, Swinhoe's Minivet, Large Scimitar Babbler, Spot-necked Babbler, Hume's White-eye, White-bellied Munia and Olive-backed Pipit - the latter extremely rare this far south. In the reptile line we recorded Mock Viper and Oriental Whip Snake. Returned toward Hua Hin stopping at a newish resort past Pala-U.

3 Nov. Further heavy overnight rain. Leaving the area, we headed north to Kanchanaburi province, passing some impressive flooding in Phetchaburi. Our first stop, late afternoon, was Sai Yok Noi Waterfall. Too many tourists at the waterfall itself to hold anything of interest, so we investigated scrub and forest behind the falls.

Yellow-headed Rock Gecko

Tiger Cave Gecko

Typical national park overpriced accommodation with no working hot shower, no refrigerator and fan-only accommodation at twice the price of good accommodation outside the park. However, staying inside the park has the huge advantage of access to forest after dark. Dinner at one of several park food stands and then a long walk till 23:00 around streams, caves, rock faces and the two and a half kilometre nature trail. Pretty hard work and slow going, but success in the form of Limborg's Frog, Striped Spadefoot Frog and the endemic Yellow-headed Rock Gecko and Tiger Cave Gecko.

5 Nov. Morning catching up on notes, then out to try the longer trail to the Bat Cave. The habitat along this trail is almost totally bamboo, so the selection of bird species was limited - Puff-throated Babbler, White-rumped Shama, Two-barred Warbler, Yellow-bellied Warbler and little else. The cave itself was quite interesting with Kitti's Hog-nosed Bat, often considered the world's smallest bat. Two other bat species were unidentifiable. Another night walk taking in the end of the nature trail followed yesterday as well as the trail to the World War II railway bridge that borders a river. Collared Scops Owl the only night bird calling, but some success with reptiles and frogs with Limborg's Frog, Smith's Litter Frog, Tiger Cave Gecko and Malayan Banded Wolf Snake. Overnight again in the park which, being a Saturday, our neighbours had arrived with guitars and bongos so as to really appreciate nature, playing till midnight.

However, a kilometre out rain started unexpectedly, forcing our return after giving it a half hour to ease, which it didn't. Rain continued till 20:00, when we tried another night walk but five minutes out another heavy downpour. In between the showers we walked the campsite area, recording at least Boulenger's Frog, Limborg's Frog, Tenasserim Frog and Painted Bullfrog with a few others pending identification.

7 Nov. Further heavy rain overnight, but a damp but clear morning, so following breakfast we hit the nature trail again. Wet underfoot with the river level up, so rubber boots required as the trail crosses both side-streams and the river. We worked the trail till 16:00, walking about 1.5 kilometres to falls level five of nine, where the trail disappeared into the river and became difficult and dangerous to follow higher. In the reptile line, Maclelland's Coral Snake and Speckled Keelback, plus Red Bush Brown, White Diadem and Angled Cyclops butterflies. Birds rather thin on the ground, but a small group of Tickell's Brown Hornbill would seem very notable.

After dark we again walked the nature trail. Very quiet away from the river, but frogs in and near the river - Boulenger's Frog and Greater Horned Stream Frog.

8 Nov. Back on the road and a two hour drive on windy roads to Thong Pha Phum National Park. There being no other choice of accommodation, checked into a park bungalow. Some of the poorest park accommodation we'd ever seen - only one water outlet, no fan and no electricity other than two hours in the evening, lights only with no option to charge equipment. At 1,200 Baht, quite outrageous. Despite its remote location, this park has a fair number of poor accommodation units, plus a large campsite, so well visited during the dry, cool season. Trail system non existent. A general stroll around the HQ area produced a few butterflies and a couple of Kalij Pheasant.

We next checked out the nearby Jok Kratin Waterfall. Unfortunately no possibilities for night work as the gate is locked at 17:00. We did though note a good number of butterflies. Afternoon cloudy with showers, so returned to the accommodation to wait it out. After dark, between the rains, we managed a short walk to investigate the HQ buildings and a nearby pond. Several interesting geckos, including a large range extension for Kaeng Krachan Parachute Gecko, until our activities were cut short by heavy rain and also one of the rangers who reckoned a permit was required to photograph frogs at night. Really? The same permit as required to photograph the view in the daytime? Or play guitars at midnight? Around 21:00 the rain finally stopped and we took a walk around the campsite area, where the ranger on guard was far more amenable to us wandering around taking photos. Another profitable walk with Oldham's Bent-toed Gecko and Pope's Pit Viper - the later destined for a split at a later date. A late return, after 01:00, following which we assessed the leech damage of the day - them being plentiful here.

9 Nov. Given our late finish, definitely not an early start. A few birds around the accommodation included Greenish Warbler, Claudia's Leaf Warbler, Kalij Pheasant, Rufous-throated Partridge, Mountain Bulbul, Ashy Bulbul and Olive Bulbul. With the morning heating up we revisited Jok Kratin falls for butterflies, finding a fair number, including Blue Gem, Common Gem, Common Sergeant, Banded Swallowtail and a bunch of confusing skippers. Started our longish drive south, where we stopped overnight just after Kanchanaburi town as night fell.

Tickell's Brown Hornbill

MacClelland's Coral Snake

White Diadem

Red Bushbrown

Pope's Pit Viper

Paradise Tree Snake

11 Nov. A final attempt for Blue-rumped Parrot. A early start at 05:00 for the two hour drive to Kuiburi. Not the hoped for start, with rain starting as soon as we set off. Thankfully this proved to be local to Hua Hin, as the morning at Kuiburi was dry and cloudy. A new sign at the ranger station now permits vehicular access only to those with larger wheels and a fitted winch. However, as we'd planned to walk the track this was not an issue. Birds much the same as the previous visit, with no Blue-rumped Parrot again - seemingly the birds having moved away in the absence of their preferred trees in fruit. Species recorded included Grey-breasted Spiderhunter, Grey Peacock-Pheasant heard, Thick-billed Green Pigeon, Crimson Sunbird and Paradise Tree Snake. A late return to Bangkok and flight to Chiang Mai.