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30 Jan - 10 Feb 2017.
Dry and pleasant. Hot in the lowlands by midday.
Chiang Saen, Chaiyaphon, Phu Thok, Phu Wua Wildlife Sanctuary, Phu Langka National Park, Phu Wiang National Park, Phu Pha Man National Park and Bueng Boraphet.

31 Jan. Thinking that the lake would likely be fogged in, and the hides likely productive early in the day, we started looking for Chestnut-crowned Bush Warbler. As with it having been sighted the previous morning we rated our chances as pretty good. However, another really quiet session, hard-going, with just the third winter returning Firethroat, a single Dusky Warbler and a single Siberian Rubythroat seen in seven hours. More interesting was a large Indochinese Rat Snake present in the bird bath for a couple of hours, that probably didn't help the birding! Gave up at 14:00, at Birders 0 - Birds 3, to run into another birder, having had four Mandarin Duck on the lake first thing. Grrr. 0 - 4 to the Birds.

Firethroat

Phu Thok (Punjapa Phetsri)

Little in the way of bird activity, but far less destroyed than the Mekong at Chiang Saen. A handful of Small Pratincole on the rocks, River Lapwing and about a dozen Wire-tailed Swallow. Next we headed to Phu Thok, with its temple and impressive rock formation. Climbed the wooden steps to the lookout, where the only birds of note were Dusky Crag Martin and a Common Kestrel circling. On the ascent we also found the endemic Phu Wua Lizard, a single Long-tailed Sun Skink and a couple of smaller, darker-eyed geckos, that on subsequent discussion proved to be Fehlmann's Four-clawed Gecko, though evidently this species complex is in need of revision, having such a wide range with differing morphology throughout. The skies clouded over late afternoon, almost threatening rain, but stayed dry. Remained at the top till dusk, before walking a circuit of the wooden walkway that runs around the cliffs. This one is definitely not for the faint-hearted as the wooden walkways are simply hammered into sheer cliffs and appear to be hanging from the cliff faces with long drops below. Siamese Ground Gecko appeared rather common in the bamboo understorey.

At one small temple. a monk took us to a nearby cave that had a number of Black-bearded Tomb Bat. Late afternoon returned to Phu Thok finding a few Rhesus Macaque, a very scarce mammal in Thailand. After dark, a more thorough search around the boulders and gullies where we'd had a glimpse yesterday, proved unproductive again, so opted for yet another try as yesterday where the habitat looked most promising. On arrival Brown Wood Owl heard, and during a longer search we we located an excellent rocky gully that housed a sleeping Phu Wua Lizard, but again failed to find Jarujin's Bent-toed Gecko.

4 Feb. Rather than spend another fruitless day searching for gecko habitat we headed east to try some new spots. Our first port of call was Phu Wua Wildlife Sanctuary, where a couple of hours along the Nature Trail gave us two large rat snakes too quick to identify, plus Curved Cyclops and Large Faun butterflies. Walking the Nature Trail was a refreshing change from the monotony of rubber plantations we'd been subjected to the last two days. Heading farther east we arrived at Phu Langka National Park where, as the only accommodation unit was booked, we selected one of the newer resorts nearby on the highway. Phu Langka turned out to be a rather pleasant park, with a good trail network, river walk, butterflies, reptiles and some interesting birds.

Mid afternoon we walked to the third level of the Waterfall Trail. A good number of butterflies although few species - Large Faun, Dwarf Crow, Common Indian Crow dominating, but also Indian Leaf and Large Assyrian. Some small skinks in the leaf-litter were identified as Mimic Forest Skink, but very difficult to photograph. Beyond the third level the trail lead to bamboo ladders directly ascending to a cliff lookout, that we had insufficient time to investigate. A large fruiting tree had both Thick-billed Green Pigeon and Rhesus Macaque. Around 18:30 we left the park as most likely the entrance gate would be closed later.

Phu Wua Lizard

Curved Cyclops

Large Faun

Jarujin's Bent-toed Gecko

Grey Wagtail

On the return we took one of the the drier Nature Trails toward the road to the Pagoda, completing the loop to the park headquarters. A late lunch in Paeng town, then another start along the Waterfall Trail to the third level where we remained till dusk. Once dark, we started on the dry boulders above level three and worked our way down stream. Finally found Jarujin's Bent-toed Gecko; making this a new site for this gecko that is currently only known from around the type locality near Phu Thok. Other species encountered were Dark-sided Frog and Gyldenstolpe's Frog. We also heard Blyth's Frogmouth, that is a considerable range extension within Thailand, as previously unknown north of Khao Yai in the northeast.

6 Feb. Another walk for butterflies and a final try to photograph the Mimic Forest Skink, that failed. On the return we took a second Nature Trail that unexpectedly turned into something of a death march, being much longer than expected and through more open forest and bamboo. Consequently, left the park later than planned, at 14:00, heading southwest toward Phu Kradueng National Park, as far as Udon Thani where we checked into a new hotel that also had a good western food restaurant across the road.

Common Red Pierrot

Undescribed Gecko - Gekko sp. nov.

Doria's Bush Frog

Next we tried Phu Pha Man National Park, about which we knew nothing other than it having a large bat cave and a waterfall. On arrival first checked the small Phalanthong Waterfall, where good to see some flowing water plus some reasonable access to the adjacent stream bed. Looked promising, so we headed to the park office to try to secure accommodation. Unfortunately due to 200 plus boy scouts and girl guides, the usual accommodation was full, so we had to make-do with some basic huts with no facilities, for 200 Baht - fine for one night. An initial find was Common Red Pierrot, that despite its name is a highly local and scarce butterfly in Thailand. So things were looking up.

Finding a sign to three caves eight kilometres away, we tried them, driving off road, through a variety of forested and field habitat, with butterflies much in evidence but no real time to stop. Arrived at the caves and started with Lai Tang Cave. Rather too small for any bats or reptiles, with the cave being mostly known for its 2,000 year old rock paintings just outside the entrance. The second, Phaya Nakarath Cave, was a solid 400 metre hike uphill and comprised of a huge cavern with some stalactite formations, but no bats and few insects. Lastly tried Kled Khao Cave, a more gentle 300 metre walk, but another huge cavern with no bats, although a couple of hard to identify geckos at the entrance were probably Common Four-clawed Gecko. We hung around the area till dark, when further exploration found, rather surprisingly a couple of undescribed Gekko sp. nov. the same as currently known only from Phitsanulok province.

From here we returned to Phalanthong Waterfall, clambered down the bank and took a slow walk upstream. Hundreds of small chorus frogs of a couple of species along the stream bed, plus Isan Big-headed Frog, Dark-sided Frog and Siamese Ground Gecko. Also, most interestingly, a couple of Doria's Bush Frog and a Reeve's Leaf-litter Skink. So an excellent haul, although strangely no snakes, given the huge frog buffet on offer.

9 Feb. Back at dawn to the same area with another drive around the fields and ponds, but again no geese. A large flock of 3,000 Garganey and a couple of Ferruginous Duck. Nakhon Sawan for lunch, during which we contacted Khun Phanom, the local boatman and birder for assistance and a revisit to the same area. He showed us a couple of different ponds we'd not found earlier, but no different result with us coming up empty-handed.

10 Feb. A final attempt to hunt for the geese, but again totally elusive. So definitely a wild goose chase to finish the trip. Drove to Bangkok and return flight to Chiang Mai.

Plain-backed Sparrow