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10 - 18 Jan 2017
Initially very wet becoming dry and warm.
Doi Phu Kha National Park, Tham Sakoen National Park, Dong Chen Lake, Pratu Pha and Doi Suthep-Pui National Park.

10 Jan. Left Chiang Mai early afternoon, driving through constant light rain, as far as the provincial capital city of Nan where we found a guesthouse in the backpacker's quarter of town. We were rather surprised to find a local restaurant serving reasonable pizza just around the corner.

11 Jan. Disappointingly, the same restaurant failed to open at the promised 08:00, so we had to forego the full English fry-up breakfast, instead hitting the nearest 7-Eleven. A two hour drive through more cloud and rain to Doi Phu Kha National where we checked into our pre-booked park bungalow, of a surprisingly good standard considering usual park accommodation. The remainder of the day spent sheltering from rain and generally mentally preparing for hopefully improved weather granting the possibility to hike into the mountains in search of Beautiful Nuthatch. The few species seen in open areas around the park headquarters included Barred Cuckoo-Dove, Greenish Warbler and a good number of Indochinese Yuhina. At dusk, despite the continuing rain, we ventured onto the Nature Tail, and were rewarded with finding a stunning gecko, that on subsequent discussion will probably turn out to be an undescribed Cyrtodactylus sp. [Subsequently, 2021, described as Doi Phu Kha Bent-toed Gecko Cyrtodactylus phukhaensis]. Stayed out till 22:30, having tried to walk the Nature Trail loop but turning back when the trail became difficult to follow and appeared to be heading into the hills rather than looping back to the headquarters. Discovered that even in the dry season, a few leeches still around.

Indochinese Yuhina

Cyrtodactylus phukhaensis

Amolops sp. nov

Toward dusk, another herping session, rewarded with Border Litter Frog and yet another probably new species - a seemingly undescribed cascade frog Amolops sp. As all park accommodation full we drove the 25 kilometres to Pua town. Strolling down the main street after dark we discovered the huge Barn Swallow roost in trees along the central reservation. Even more surprising was the Eastern Barn Owl that glided past and dived straight into the roosting flocks, scattering them - probably a regular hunting technique.

Crenulate Darkie

Yellow-cheeked Tit

14 Jan. Given yesterday's exertions and failure, a lazy start around Pua before heading up, past the park, to the pass over the mountain toward Bo Kluea. We spent considerable time at the pass heading out along the firebreak. Although fairly quiet, we did manage Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon, Assamese Macaque, Crenulate Darkie and Scale-bellied Tree Lizard. After, descended to the shrine to look for Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch but not in evidence, so descended farther to check a stream at 1,100 metres for potential herping options, that looked promising. With an hour or so to kill before dark, returned to the shrine, where we found a female Chinese Vivid Niltava. Back to the river, where after dark found presumed Isan Big-headed Frog, and more individuals of the Amolops sp. recorded earlier. A late return to Pua to find our favourite restaurant already closed, so ate at a large bar cum restaurant with live music along the main drag.

15 Jan. Despite the late finish yesterday, an earlier start for another attempt at Beautiful Nuthatch. Half way up the trail to the ridge we caught up Khun Tawin, one of the park rangers, plus two Thai birders also trying for the nuthatch, so good to have additional pairs of eyes looking. Another day of clear, bright weather and perfect viewing conditions. Several feeding flocks found, including one containing a single Beautiful Nuthatch, initially picked up by Tawin.

16 Jan. Back to the shrine early on for another try for Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch but not in evidence. A good selection of smaller birds included Black-eared Shrike-babbler. Another trip to the pass and a walk along the firebreak, but very quiet, so decided to do open areas from the pass downward concentrating on butterflies, of which quite a few in the warm sun. The biggest surprise was a male White-bellied Green Pigeon perched close to the roadside. After 2-3 kilometres we arrived back at the shrine to find a pair of Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch, although photographing them proved tricky as horribly against the sun and distant. We hung around the shrine a while hoping for a passing songtaew but no luck, so walked back to the pass to collect the vehicle and move on to our next stop - as yet undecided. From Pua, we took the Phayao road cross-country, randomly stopping en route, late afternoon, at Tham Sakoen National Park. Knowing nothing of this park other than it contained a waterfall and a cave, we decided to investigate and stay the night. This turned out to be a bit of a hidden gem really. Well maintained accommodation, peaceful, with an excellent view from the balcony and a clear clean river containing frogs and butterflies. The only slight negative was a lack of electricity, other than a few hours in the evening, so no fridge and limited charging capacity. A quick run out to the highway for dinner, there being a very poor choice in the local village, then back to the waterfall where we spent three hours on the rocks and trail. Several frog species including Dark-sided Frog and yet another Amolops sp. difficult to identify. Finally also photographed Spiny-tailed House Gecko, a supposedly common species in Thailand. However, best find of the evening was Pope's Pit Viper - a species destined for a future split.

17 Jan. Early morning on the balcony produced a usual collection of foothill birds - Vernal Hanging Parrot, Black Bulbul, Great Barbet and the like. A final session at the river produced an excellent selection of butterflies including White-banded Pierrot. It was so good that we failed to make time to investigate the cave before needing to head toward Dong Chen Lake near Phayao to search for the recently report Red-crested Pochard. In an hour here we found Ferruginous Duck, Garganey and hundreds of Lesser Whistling Duck, but not the pochard.

White-bellied Green Pigeon

Pope's Pit Viper

White-banded Pierrot

Cave Painting

Nonetheless we persevered, scrabbling down a mud gully inside bamboo the last 20 metres, to indeed find the coordinates were way off! Asking a nearby local we ascertained there were indeed a couple of nearby caves about two kilometres away, adjacent to the famous Pratu Pha prehistoric rock paintings site. Initially, we walked the northern face of these impressive cliffs, being quietly impressed with the quantity and quality of the rock paintings. Having found no caves, we took a coffee at one of the local stalls where the owner indeed confirmed and pointed out a couple of small caves.

Swinhoe's Forest Bob

This looked a lot more promising, and almost certainly is the collection site of this gecko. However, a thorough exploration of the cave interiors and outside rock faces failed to find it, so no doubt a night visit would be required.

Common Pierrot and Spotted Pierrot

Drove to Chiang Mai for a try for our next recently described gecko - the Doi Suthep Bent-toed Gecko. Again we had only a set of coordinates, but at least here was a stream with rock faces, indicating correct coordinates. Returned after dark, but despite an hour searching could not find a single gecko, so decided to try the stream behind the temple a little farther down the hill that we'd found earlier. Having negotiated a noisy pack of dogs and spoken to the monk we were given permission to search behind the temple. This proved very successful, with a single Doi Suthep Bent-toed Gecko found on a rock face after quite a search. Late return to Chiang Mai and the end of another rather successful trip, notwithstanding the initial days lost to rain.

Doi Suthep Bent-toed Gecko