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26 Nov - 1 Dec 2017.
Dry and sunny with variable cloud cover. Temperatures ranged from 18°C to 32°C.
Wiang Kosai National Park, Tham Sakoen National Park, Doi Phu Kha National Park, Tat Man Waterfall, Phu Nang Ing Waterfall and Mae Song Reservoir.

27 Nov. An early start, to drive to Tham Sakoen, arriving before 09:00. This 40 kilometre route through the hills, if coming from Nan or Pua, must be the most winding road in Thailand - an incredible series of hairpins and curves, with interesting scenery to boot. But decidedly not for those liable to motion sickness.

This was a second visit here, and along the entrance road, an exact repeat of having to rescue a Sooty-headed Bulbul from the same illegal net as on the first visit. No such luck for Ornate Sumbird or several bats in the net though. Incredibly, entry to the park was free and we were simple waved in, not stopping to enquire why in case they changed their minds.

Given the cool, cloudy conditions, and the topography of the river within a steep-sided gorge, we found little activity. A couple of early treks up and down the trail along the waterfall, produced Slaty-backed Forktail and Plumbeous Water Redstart. The weather remained cloudy until 10:45, when the sun finally broke through, at last producing some butterfly activity. Finished with a walk along the entry road and several tracks off that we found. All in all some good species including Fruhstorfer's Yamfly and Great Swift.

Silver-breast Ace

Plumbeous Water Redstart

28 Nov. We started the day at the 1,715 metre pass, beyond Doi Phu Kha, from where we took an early walk along the ridge trail with, surprisingly, leeches still very prevalent, annoyingly so, for this time of year. Few birds, with only Slaty-backed Flycatcher and Pallas's Leaf Warbler of any note and butterflies almost totally absent.

Worked our way slowly down to the star-gazing cum viewpoint cum campsite and shrine, where over coffee a small flock of Indochinese Yuhina visited. In the late morning sun, Crenulate Darkie and the rare Tailless Plushblue found. With the sun out, returned to the ridge, but still quiet so drove down the opposite side toward Bo Kluea, stopping occasionally. Late afternoon we again tried spots lower on the western slope with some success in the form of White Commodore, Fruhstorfer's Yamfly and a bunch of confusing sapphires. A second night in Pua.

29 Nov. As early in the day at altitude and with cool conditions, we tried walking both ends of the Doi Phu Kha Nature Trail - it being difficult to follow the middle section. A couple of Bianchi's Warbler and Alstrom's Warbler, together with a good mixed flock containing Black-eared Shrike-Babbler.

Burmese Mountain Snake

Rusty Forester

Phu Nang Ing Waterfall

After midday a return to lower slopes and then, with improving weather, back to the viewpoint where a flowering tree proved excellent for jezebels, with Yellow Jezebel, Painted Jezebel, Red-breast Jezebel and Great Windmill. A late visit to the top found Rusty Forester, another rare species. A final overnight in Pua with the chickens.

30 Nov. Figuring that weather would be warmer and sunnier at lower altitudes we decided to dedicate a day to Tat Man, that we'd checked earlier. Whilst driving from Pua we spotted a sign for Phu Nang Ing Waterfall and thought that, while still early, we'd take a look here as well. A surprisingly scenic gorge for a small provincial waterfall, though unlikely much visited, as unsigned with only dirt tracks leading there. Striated Heron on the river and a few butterflies in the early sun. A lack of much surrounding habitat means this would be unlikely to harbour much wildlife.

At Tat Man itself we found the area rather interesting - both the waterfall and the the forested entry road. Bird-wise most surprising was Collared Babbler. During several hours we found Jeweled Nawab, Dingiest Sailor and Burmese Batwing. Late afternoon, a three hour drive to Phrae where we took accommodation by the highway - thankfully without the chicken dawn chorus.

1 Dec. A cool foggy morning, much like the weather expected at this time of year, with an early fog burning off to a cloudless, hot day. Spent the morning in an exploratory visit to Mae Song Reservoir, though not much of note.

Burmese Batwing