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19 - 22 Dec 2017.
Dry and sunny with variable cloud cover. Temperatures ranged from 12°C to 28°C.
Huay Nam Dang National Park, Tham Lod, Pha Suea National Park and Namtok Mae Surin National Park.

19 Dec. Left Chiang Mai around 07:00 and drove to Huay Nam Dang, just inside Mae Hong Son province. Given the windy conditions and 12°C temperature at 1,700 metres, together with its associated lack of likely birds or butterflies, the 300 Baht entrance fee was a bit steep. Spent the morning driving the first 20 kilometres along the dirt road through the park. As expected, almost zero in the butterfly line, but good numbers of Black Bulbul, with a few White-headed Bulbul mixed in, as well as the white-headed leucocephalus race of the former, just to keep us on our toes. Early afternoon we cut our losses to try the lower altitude, drier, forest around Tham Lod. An hour here, en route to Mae Hong Song, was quite productive for commoner lowland forest butterflies. Arrived Mae Hong Son town late afternoon, checked into our pre-booked accommodation and discovered an excellent eatery, with cold beer, around the lake in town. Though not before finding ourselves driving through the pedestrian-only evening market around the lake in town, that took some reversing out of.

20 Dec. In town, a cool 14°C and fog to start the morning. A quick traditional Thai birding breakfast of coffee and 7-Eleven, then drove north of town about 20 kilometres to explore any open tracks and trails we could find around Pha Suea. Most access consisted of tracks leading through forest toward plantations and fields, so over the morning we covered a few, finding one good butterfly puddling area. Mid afternoon we explored the Pha Suea Waterfall itself, though shade in the deep valley kept the temperature cool and activity low. In-keeping with Thai national park tradition, the Waterfall Trail lacked maintenance and was overgrown and impassible after 200 metres. At the top of the falls a female Plumbeous Water Redstart found. Other than that, the best birds of the day were Orange-breasted Trogon, Bamboo Woodpecker, Greater Flameback, Blue-bearded Bee-eater and Vernal Hanging Parrot. Late afternoon we chanced upon a group of Chestnut-headed Bee-eater picking off bees from several large colonies attached to a water tower - no doubt a daily occurrence. Overnight in Mae Hong Son town again.

Black Bulbul

Angled Cyclops

Red-spot Jezebel

Asian House Martin

Rustic

Continuing farther south our attention was next drawn to a road sign-posted to a microwave station ten kilometres in. Figuring that meant altitude we gave it a try. Steep and winding, with a number of local hill tribe pickups coming the other way, that required some attentive driving. Scenery interesting, and for some bizarre reason on entering the park boundary the forest disappeared and agricultural fields started - very odd. At the TV and microwave station, at 1,500 metres, we parked the vehicle and walked around the overgrown fields at the top. More fantastic views, and the first bird of interest was Buff-throated Warbler, that appeared common, as well as several Red-throated Pipit giving strange calls. Of most interest though was a flushed Yellow-legged Buttonquail, as well as good numbers of Asian House Martin.

Returned to Highway 108 and again headed south, taking Highway 4009. More great scenery and good dry forest, along a very steep winding road. After some kilometres we tried a badly signed track to Mae Surin Waterfall, that passed through excellent forest and eventually again emerged onto Highway 4009 and the waterfall. Although the waterfall itself is quite impressive, it didn't justify the 200 Baht entrance fee, as the forest we'd passed was far more interesting. By 13:00 we started the return, cross-country, drive to Chiang Mai, arriving five hours later.