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5 - 9 Nov 2018.
Dry and mostly sunny. Temperatures ranged from 20°C to 35°C.
Thung Salaeng Luang National Park, Nam Nao National Park, Tat Mok National Park and Si Satchanalai National Park.

Pallid Nawab

Painted Bushbrown

5 Nov. Left Chiang Mai pre rush-hour, arriving at Kaeng Sopha Waterfall on the northern edge of Thung Salaeng Luang by midday. Despite the beautiful weather, an almost total lack of butterflies even around the falls. After an hour's fruitless search we moved to the main, northern, entrance a few kilometres down the highway. Here, we spent the remainder of the afternoon exploring the river area for both butterflies and birds. Best butterflies were Yellow Glassy Tiger, Pallid Nawab and Painted Bushbrown. Birds in very short supply. Late afternoon we continued to Lom Sak, where we checked in for a two night stay.

6 Nov. All day at Nam Nao, starting early morning along the track to Phu Goom Khao. An exposed snag held a group of at least 20 Thick-billed Green Pigeon, with Oriental Turtle Dove, Rosy Minivet and Swinhoe's Minivet also putting in an appearance. Calling Green-legged Partridge was a surprise. By the time we reached the river crossing, ten kilometres in, we'd found Siamese Pale Grass Yellow, Orange Oakleaf, Siamese Brownie and Lesser Grass Jewel. After an hour here we returned to the highway, recording Red-headed Trogon, Orange-breasted Trogon, Mountain Imperial Pigeon, Vernal Hanging Parrot, Grey Treepie, Sulphur-breasted Warbler, Blue Rock Thrush and Olive-backed Pipit along the way. Mid afternoon we checked out Hao Sai Waterfall, only to discover the park management have now bulldozed a track through the first 500 metres to create a parking area.

Lesser Grass Jewel

Late afternoon we dropped by the Sunrise Viewpoint where we encountered a small group of Assamese Macaque; a species found rarely these days. Overnight at Lom Sak.

Assamese Macaque

7 Nov. Today we wished to investigate the grasslands of Thung Salaeng Luang. Unfortunately, that meant gritting our teeth and paying the outlandish, totally rip-off, 500 Baht entrance fee. Our main target was the rare Burmese Threering, which has been found here occasionally in the past. Oddly, a permit is required from the park office before being let into the area. Totally weird, as once through the checkpoint the perfectly built paved road is closed off to vehicular access and has been for several years. So a permit to go where? Therefore we walked the first couple of kilometres of the road searching the grassland edges, but had no luck with the threering. And of the few birds present in this habitat, only Indochinese Bush Lark and Golden-headed Cisticola of note. Due to the scorching heat in this open habitat, by 11:00 we decided to give it a break and check the forest along the entrance road we'd passed through on our drive in. This proved productive with Danaid Eggfly, Silver Royal, Oriental Turtle Dove, Large Woodshrike and Sulphur-breasted Warbler. It's always amazing how abundant leeches are at Thung Salaeng Luang, even when the forest looks baked dry, with today no exception, plenty of them were active. Mid afternoon we gave the grasslands another shot, though this time selected a different track. More successful this time, with two Burmese Threering. Late afternoon we explored the campsite, finding the beautiful Witch plus a Collared Blackhead, an unfortunate road casualty of the campsite expansion project. Overnight in Phetchabun city with some very welcome cold beers.

8 Nov. Looking back on last year's trip we were surprised to find it was exactly one year to the day that we'd first visited Tat Mok, so today would make an interesting comparison. Being less than 15 kilometres from the city we arrived early, and even by the time we'd driven as far as the waterfall, 20 kilometres from the entrance, the sun had still not risen above the steep valley sides. Unfortunately more development inside the park with power lines now being run along the valley and trees being cut down to make way for them. We also encountered a new weir a couple of kilometres from the falls. The newly constructed concrete here did prove an interesting attraction though for butterflies, with Wizard, Dingiest Sailor and Dark-based Lineblue the pick of the bunch. Along the river Slaty-backed Forktail appeared quite common. Left around 14:00 for the four hour drive to Phitsanulok, randomly selecting accommodation in town. Very warm, up to 35°C, in lowlands.

9 Nov. A two hour drive to Si Satchanalai, a park we knew nothing of, but wanted to try. On arrival we discovered the wonderful attractions - four waterfalls and a cave - were closed. with the exception of Tad Duan Waterfall. No reason was given for these closures. Bit a nerve charging 200 Baht when all your attractions are unavailable. Additionally, we discovered the decent looking trail network - at least on the maps and signs - was also closed.

Grasslands - Thung Salaeng Luang

Burmese Threering

Dingiest Sailor

Chestnut-headed Bee-eater

Tad Duan Waterfall

Despite this, we spent the morning at the only open waterfall, and in several hours recorded a good number of commoner butterflies plus the decidedly uncommon Constable. Definitely a place with potential and we would consider revisting if the forest trails would be open. Left at 14:00 for the four hour drive to Chiang Mai.

Constable