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24 - 30 Apr 2019.
Mixed. Hot, though pleasant overnight at altitude. Mostly clear by day, but seasonal storms at night. Temperatures ranged from 18°C to 44°C.
Doi Phu Kha National Park, Khun Nan National Park and Tat Mok Waterfall.

24 Apr. Although not so far as the crow flies from Chiang Mai, Doi Phu Kha is 420 kilometres by road - a lengthy six hour drive - with temperature around 43°C en route. With Andy, Rushen and Ian travelling up from Kaeng Krachan and Bangkok, we met late afternoon at Doi Phu Kha where we'd secured park accommodation for three nights. Amazingly, for a national park, the accommodation appeared to have had some maintenance since our last visit, so we had a fully functional shower plus fridge and kettle to boot. Luxury! Pleasantly cool, at 32°C, on our veranda with the first birds, Indian Cuckoo calling and Collared Owlet calling nearby.

Malayan Shield Mantis

Black Fivering

Undescribed Dopasia sp. nov.

Was disappointed to discover that the star-gazing campsite now has a massive new construction built on it. Not open as yet but would appear to be some kind of visitor centre. Headed up to the pass at 1,715 metres and spent the next few hours walking the ridge trail. Grey Peacock-Pheasant calling was a surprise, plus Black-eared Shrike-babbler, White-gorgeted Flycatcher, Indochinese Yuhina and Orange-headed Thrush. Butterflies were largely absent, but persistence paid off, with Tailed Red Forester, White Dryad, Wood-Mason's Bushbrown and Tailed Labyrinth. Despite the dry conditions a few leeches were still active. At the Chompoo Phu Kha shrine, Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch heard. Mid afternoon tried the fire break trail near the park headquarters, but little seen. Returned to base around 17:00, after which clouds gathered, with heavy rain from 19:00 - 20:30. Power off again.

26 Apr. Somewhat of a repeat of the previous day, this time with Andy. At the river were even fewer butterflies but we chanced upon Indian Blue Baron - likely the first record from Doi Phu Kha of this rare butterfly. We then spent several hours on the ridge trail. This produced Rusty-naped Pitta calling and several Small Niltava. Other excellent finds were Black Fivering, White Dryad and an apparently new and undescribed glass lizard - Dopasia sp. nov. We dropped down to Bo Kluea for lunch, then checked the shrine area for Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch, without luck, plus several other stops. A dry evening with a good number of moths.

Scale-bellied Tree Lizard

We checked out of the park accommodation and before heading down to Bo Kluea stopped en route to check once again for Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch, but again not found. Good early morning birding with Spectacled Barwing, Silver-eared Laughingthrush, Asian Barred Owlet, Whiskered Yuhina and, very surprisingly, two Brown-breasted Bulbul. The later being an unwelcome addition to the list on account of it clearly moving into the area with spreading deforestation and agricultural creep. At Bo Kluea we thought a mid-morning coffee by the river would be a pleasant break, only to find power still out here as well.

Continued to Sapan Waterfall where we explored the pleasant trail along the river, finding a few interesting butterflies. Following lunch we entered Khun Nan National Park, where the rangers were so surprised to see foreigners they forgot to charge us entry.

A few damsel flies found near the campground, then a mid afternoon trip to the the view point and a stroll along the road with Silver Pheasant, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Siamese Ringlet and Great Yellow Sailor. Overnight in Bo Kluea.

28 Apr. Heavy overnight rain from 02:00 continuing till morning when still overcast with a slight drizzle, though at least the power remained on. As Ian had explored more of the Sapan Waterfall trail yesterday, we returned and decided to follow the trail as far as possible, on the probability that it would, or at least had in the past, run as far as the headquarters at Khun Nan. Other than a tricky rock overhang to negotiate, the trail appeared to be in relatively good condition, and four kilometres and four hours later we emerged at the park campsite. An interesting trail, mostly following the river valley, though with a detour into dry, and uninteresting forest in the middle section. Few birds observed, though Siberian Blue Robin, Silver-breasted Broadbill and Long-tailed Broadbill were present. A late coffee in town.

29 Apr. Now on our third day at Khun Nan, having originally planned only one, as we'd found the area more interesting than expected. The morning again at the park, mainly on the trail. Annoyingly missed Abnormal Flash which belted off into the canopy before it could be photographed. Other finds included Great Archduke, Stately Nawab and Great Nawab. On exiting the park we enquired about the brand spanking new accommodation that has been built, only to be informed it was not open yet. We figured they were probably waiting for them to decay to usual park standards before opening. A quick lunch then we moved to the Sapan Waterfall end, finding Orange Flat and Large Forest Bob. In the evening we endeavoured to find a restaurant in village for a change, rather than eating at the accommodation, only to discover them all closed.

30 Apr. An early start, straight to the park to try again for the Abnormal Flash, but no luck. A disappearing Dacalana sp. was equally frustrating. Several Orange-breasted Trogon were calling along the trail, which at 1,000 metres is high for this species. Left mid morning and drove to Tat Man Waterfall, north of Pua. Unfortunately the local spotty-youth moped gang had decided on a mass washing of mopeds in the falls, that didn't exactly make it very welcoming. However, a good number of butterflies in the area, though nothing unusual. After checking the river situated halfway along the entrance road, still didn't find anything that interesting, so hit the road to Chiang Mai.

Sapan Waterfall

Asian Brown Flycatcher

Chequered Keelback

Sylhet Oakblue