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Southern Thailand: 20 Feb - 6 Mar 2020


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20 Feb - 6 Mar 2020.
Mostly dry, with variable cloud cover. Temperatures ranged from 19°C to 34°C.
Phang-nga mangroves, Namtok Raman Forest Park, Khao Phanombencha National Park, Khao Ramrom, Bang Lang National Park, Namtok Yong National Park and Krung Ching.

With Ian Dugdale. Due to a plethora of external factors, the itinerary for this trip seemed almost to change daily. Originally we'd planned for the period of 25 Feb to 3 Mar, but an abrupt end to the previous trip due to a severe accident, coupled with the ever-changing impacts on travel from the Covid-19 virus, meant we had to be flexible and made the itinerary up as we went along. In general, things worked out fine and the trip was enjoyable and mostly successful. The focus throughout was primarily butterflies and herps, with moths, dragonflies and birds thrown in for good measure.

20 Feb. Having spent several days, since the end of the previous trip, assisting a friend in Phuket, left the island mid morning to arrive in Phang-nga by 11:30. An initial, quick visit to the mangrove forest adjacent to the Queen's Park, held Ruddy Kingfisher, Streak-breasted Woodpecker, Sakhalin Leaf Warbler and Olive-winged Bulbul. Then to a previously unvisited site at Raman Waterfall to assess its suitability for butterflies. Walked the first half of the Nature Trail, finding a few things of interest including White-dot Oakblue and Yellow-bellied Bulbul . Overnight in Phang-nga.

21 Feb. Having positively assessed the Nature Trail as of potential interest, the majority of the day was spent in a slow walk to the end and back - almost 1.5 kilometres each way, and in relatively good condition for a Thai park trail. Despite the very dry conditions, a fair number of leeches active and the cloudy weather was not optimal for butterflies. A late afternoon drive to Krabi.

22 Feb, Today was earmarked to try Khao Phanombencha for butterflies. Upon arrival numerous Pallid Faun were in evidence - always a stunning butterfly. Started with the short walk to the main waterfall, where a rather confiding Chestnut-naped Forktail was active. Other than that, in the dry conditions butterflies mostly absent. On a whim, and with plenty of time, decided to walk the Dogslide Nature Trail. Naturally, in common with most Thai National Park trails, this two plus kilometre trail becomes a death march, climbing around 300 metres in altitude, then circling back to the main waterfall. Hard work for anything, though good views of Banded Kingfisher and Black-and yellow broadbill. Afterwards, walked the closer, shorter trail to the small waterfall near the park headquarters, but it was totally dry. A second night in Krabi.

23 Feb. Drove the three hours to Khao Ramrom, part of Namtok Yong National Park, itself formerly part of Khao Luang National Park, where at the summit finally met up with Ian. Due to the presence of TV towers at the 1,000 metre summit, access is maintained, though the steepness of the hill has to be seen to be believed, and must rate as the steepest, ostensibly drivable, hill in Thailand.

White-dot Oakblue
White-dot Oakblue

Chestnut-naped Forktail
Chestnut-naped Forktail

Pallid Faun
Pallid Faun

Even though paved, without 4x4, this ascent is difficult when raining, and should not be underestimated. As usual, despite us having an accommodation booking, staff were amazed to see anyone actually turn up. Once checked in to our accommodation we walked about the summit area, though the strong winds and cloud meant we found little of note. One very pleasant surprise was that the concrete walkway, through the forest, around the summit, was in the process of being extended by a considerable margin, and when complete will encircle the summit via its 950 metre length. After dark, a couple of hours herping found Four-lined Tree Frog, Malayan Pied Warted Tree Frog, Chan-ard's Rock Gecko and Lekagul's Bent-toed Gecko, but, surprisingly, not a single snake.

Malacca Cerulean
Malacca Cerulean

Jade Hawk Moth
Jade Hawk Moth

Cinereous Bulbul
Cinereous Bulbul

Spotted Spark
Spotted Spark

24 Feb. Concentrating on butterflies, this morning we started much lower down the hill, at 300 metres altitude, with a look at the Ramrom Waterfall. A short, 50 metre, trail leads to a small, not particularly exciting waterfall, where we found Chestnut-naped Forktail, Great Iora and a single Malayan Batwing. For the remainder of the morning we worked our way uphill, with a longer stop at 600 metres, where at least it's possible to park on a relatively flat spot. After lunch we concentrated on further exploration of the habitat along the new walkway and upper elevation forest. In the butterfly line, Malacca Cerulean, Spotted Spark and Plush were of note. Birds included calling White-crowned Hornbill and Brown Wood Owl as well as Plume-toed Swiftlet, Himalayan Swiftlet, Black Baza, Raffles's Malkoha, Bamboo Woodpecker and Cinereous Bulbul. After dark, another three hour herping session provided little in addition to yesterday's night walk.

25 Feb. A morning spent working downward from the mid section of the mountain to the base, with Three-spot Yamfly and Cardinal. Fortuitously, to save the slog up, we managed to hitch a lift with another visitor to the top. After lunch we drove to Namtok Yong, where we'd already booked park accommodation. Quite a change since our last visit almost ten years previously, with brand spanking new accommodation. Being a Sunday the waterfall was rather busy with day trippers, though the extremely dry conditions were not good for much in the way of nature anyway. A single Violet Cuckoo flew over.

On a short walk to the plant nursery we discovered the Nature Trail. Allegedly the trail was a two kilometre loop, but as usual, after about one kilometre, the trail became impossible to follow and we had to retrace our steps. The viewpoint, about 700 metres in, was pleasant though. With more time and a GPS it would have been possible to find the missing section of the trail by working from the other end of the loop. A short night walk produced Dark-sided Frog, Grey Nightjar and a single Buffy Fish Owl.

26 Feb. The morning was spent in a wander around the waterfall and along the track toward the nature trail, with Banded Woodpecker, Banded Kingfisher, Violet Cuckoo and Black-bellied Malkoha. A very frustrating highlight was two, rather small, green pigeons perched briefly, too brief even for a record shot, before completely disappearing. It's been many, many, years since Little Green Pigeon has been recorded in Thailand, although this low elevation and forest, with few visiting birders, would be exactly the kind of spot they might turn up. Butterflies around the river and waterfall included Red-spot Marquis, Streaked Baron and Spangled Plushblue. A five hour drive to Yala where we found accommodation in town.

27 Feb. First off, we drove the few hours to Chulaporn 9, one of the small villages on the edge of Bang Lang National Park. Although this area is somewhat remote, it's possible to stay in the village and make arrangements with the friendly locals to provide any meals required. Ice, and a limited selection of beer, is available locally, but other basics such as milk, coffee, bread, cereal and snacks need to be brought in. Having secured our accommodation we drove the couple of kilometres, past the usually unoccupied ranger station, to the start of the track to Halasa Waterfall.

The general area from the ranger station consists of a mix of forest, plus two trails; one to the waterfall and another to a small river. Each trail is around 500 - 600 metres. The whole area is good birding and it's easy to occupy a couple of days looking for birds, herps, butterflies and dragonflies here. Note, that although the ranger station is not permanently manned, ranger and police patrols operate, especially at night. The one patrol we ran into were seriously armed, but had no issues with us being there. During our first afternoon we walked both trails and the road, effectively checking out the various habitats. Despite the bone-dry conditions, leeches were still surprisingly active.

28 Feb. The morning was spent along the trail to the river, with Big Tree Skink a reptile highlight. Much time spent at the river, as it was one of the few places we found any puddling butterflies, and over time it attracted Obscure Zebra and Malayan Zebra. The remainder of the day spent along the main track between the waterfall and the village, slowly building up a good haul of bird species, with Great Argus heard, Grey-rumped Treeswift, Violet Cuckoo, Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo, Barred Eagle-Owl, Yellow-crowned Barbet, Sooty Barbet, Rufous Piculet, Banded Woodpecker, Crimson-winged Woodpecker, Blue-crowned Hanging Parrot, Crow-billed Drongo, Hairy-backed Bulbul, Streaked Bulbul, Brown Fulvetta, Scarlet-breasted Flowerpecker and Long-billed Spiderhunter. A night walk found Western Sunda Spotted Stream Frog, Hose's Rock Frog, White-lipped Frog, Larut Cascade Frog and Blyth's Giant Frog. But again, not one snake, presumably due to the dry conditions, although plenty of frogs along the rivers and streams.

29 Feb. A couple of days previously, on our drive in to the area, we'd noticed, about seven kilometres before Chulaporn 9, a side road signposted to the Royal Pavilion Rain Forest Nature Study Centre. So this morning we decided to check it. The barrier at the turnoff was open and no security was in evidence, so we drove in about one kilometre, and stopped in decent-looking forest. We spent a couple of hours here and the habitat looked good, and no doubt worthy of a subsequent visit. Unfortunately any gullies crossing the road were dry so not really attractive to butterflies, though the area definitely is worth further time. Interestingly this road wends its way uphill, so with more time this area will be explored more fully. The afternoon was again spent along the river and waterfall trails, with a final night walk to the waterfall, which didn't reveal much. Birds through the day included Malayan Night Heron, Maroon Woodpecker, Black-thighed Falconet, Blue-winged Pitta, Rufous-winged Philentoma, Rusty-breasted Cuckoo, Blyth's Hawk-Eagle, Scarlet-rumped Trogon, Great Hornbill, Helmeted Hornbill, Bushy-crested Hornbill, Rufous-collared Kingfisher, Crimson-winged Woodpecker, Blue-crowned Hanging Parrot, Black-and-red Broadbill, Black-and-yellow Broadbill, Buff-vented Bulbul, Rufous-crowned Babbler and Chestnut-naped Forktail.

Bang Lang at Chulaporn 9
Bang Lang at Chulaporn 9

Malayan Zebra
Malayan Zebra

Western Sunda Spotted Stream Frog
Western Sunda Spotted Stream Frog

Barred Eagle-Owl
Barred Eagle-Owl

1 Mar. An early session, along the main track, with an interesting observation of two Great Slaty Woodpecker, a very scarce species in southern Thailand - hardly surprising given the 90% coverage or rubber and oil palm. We left at 10:30 for the longish drive to Nakhon Sri Thammarat, where we took the opportunity of a hot shower, pizza, and beer in town. None too shabby.

2 Mar. We drove the 90 minutes to Krung Ching, where we started with an exploration of the track, outside the park, which accesses the river and is used by local rafting operators following the wet season. The track runs a few kilometres to the river, with some interesting bridges that need a little courage to drive across. The last kilometre or so is reasonable forest, so we spent the remainder of the day here.

Banded Kingfisher
Banded Kingfisher

Elegant Emperor
Elegant Emperor

Yellow-disc Tailless Oakblue
Yellow-disc Tailless Oakblue

A few interesting butterflies including Lesser Darkie and Elegant Emperor. Birds included Violet Cuckoo, Crested Honey Buzzard, Banded Kingfisher and Rufous-winged Philentoma. Night herping was very difficult, due to the extremely dry conditions.

3 Mar. We spent the day along the Krung Ching Waterfall Trail, walking the three kilometres as far as the defunct Sala 3 by the river. Dry conditions and leeches mostly absent. Amazingly we discovered ongoing trail maintenance, and Sala 2 had just been rebuilt. And any possibility of Sala 1 and Sala 3 being rebuilt, or is that just wishful thinking? Unfortunately, their efforts to remove the old wooden gully crossings and replace them with more modern metal and plastic board crossings is somewhat misguided as the quality of the boarding and the way in which it has been laid means it will crack and fall apart quickly. Indeed, several planks were already snapped and gaping holes present before the builders have even completed the work.

With the whole day on the trail a fair number of birds found - Black Hornbill, White-crowned Hornbill, Rufous-collared Kingfisher, Olive-backed Woodpecker, Banded Broadbill, Black-and-yellow Broadbill, Rufous-winged Philentoma, Grey-cheeked Bulbul, Eastern Crowned Warbler, Chestnut-breasted Malkoha, Violet Cuckoo, Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo, Orange-breasted Trogon and Green Broadbill.

4 Mar. With Ian departing north this morning, a solitary early session along the entrance road, with Fiery Minivet the pick of the bunch. The remainder of the day, until 16:00, spent in a slow walk to the Krung Ching Waterfall and back, finding a pair of the rarely encountered Maroon-breasted Philentoma plus Silver-rumped Spinetail, Raffles's Malkoha, Violet Cuckoo, White-crowned Hornbill, Blue-winged Pitta, Sultan Tit and Sakhalin Leaf Warbler.

 

Yellow-tailed Awlking
Yellow-tailed Awlking

5 Mar. A return to the river trail until 11:00, with Grey-cheeked Bulbul, Crimson Sunbird and Blue-winged Leafbird. Afternoon drive to Phang-nga.

6 Mar. Most of the day spent in a slow walk along the waterfall trail at Namtok Raman, with Orange-headed Thrush.

Branded Imperial
Branded Imperial

A late afternoon return to Phuket for a catch-up with friends and some relaxing time near the beach; well away from the smoke-contaminated north of Thailand.

Species List

  Phang-nga mangroves Count   Namtok Raman Count
  Chinese Pond Heron 1   Chinese Pond Heron 2
  Ruddy Kingfisher 2   Black Baza 1
  Streak-breasted Woodpecker 2   Crested Serpent Eagle 1
  Olive-winged Bulbul 2   Banded Kingfisher 1
  Sakhalin Leaf Warbler 2   Red-throated Barbet 6
  Ashy Tailorbird 3   Rufous Piculet 1
  Little Spiderhunter 1   Black-and-yellow Broadbill 2
        Olive-winged Bulbul 1
  Khao Phanombencha Count   Yellow-bellied Bulbul 3
  Greater Coucal 1   Chestnut-winged Babbler 2
  Banded Bay Cuckoo 1   Rufous-fronted Babbler 4
  Thick-billed Green Pigeon 2   Pin-striped Tit-Babbler 6
  Banded Kingfisher 1   Orange-headed Thrush 1
  Golden-whiskered Barbet 1   Asian Brown Flycatcher 1
  Red-throated Barbet 3   Chestnut-naped Forktail 3
  Blue-eared Barbet 2   Little Spiderhunter 4
  Black-and-yellow Broadbill 1   Grey Wagtail 1
  Blyth's Paradise Flycatcher 2      
  Streak-eared Bulbul 2   Khao Ramrom Count
  Ochraceous Bulbul 4   Grey-rumped Treeswift 4
  Olive Bulbul 2   Plume-toed Swiftlet 5
  Pin-striped Tit-Babbler 4   Himalayan Swiftlet 40
  Asian Brown Flycatcher 1   Raffles's Malkoha 1
  Chestnut-naped Forktail 1   Banded Bay Cuckoo 1
  Grey Wagtail 2   Black Baza 12
        Crested Serpent Eagle 3
  Namtok Yong Count   Brahminy Kite 3
  Grey Nightjar 1   Brown Wood Owl 2
  Grey-rumped Treeswift 3   White-crowned Hornbill 2
  Black-bellied Malkoha 2   Golden-whiskered Barbet 2
  Violet Cuckoo 1   Red-throated Barbet 5
  Banded Bay Cuckoo 1   Blue-eared Barbet 2
  Thick-billed Green Pigeon 2   Bamboo Woodpecker 2
  Chinese Pond Heron 3   Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike 3
  Buffy Fish Owl 1   Great Iora 2
  Banded Kingfisher 1   White-bellied Erpornis 2
  Red-throated Barbet 4   Blyth's Paradise Flycatcher 1
  Blue-eared Barbet 2   Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher 1
  Banded Woodpecker 1   Black-crested Bulbul 4
  Vernal Hanging Parrot 2   Ochraceous Bulbul 4
  Black-and-yellow Broadbill 2   Cinereous Bulbul 6
  Golden-bellied Gerygone 1   Barn Swallow 12
  Large Woodshrike 2   Grey-crowned Warbler 1
  Spectacled Bulbul 2   Dark-necked Tailorbird 3
  Eastern Crowned Warbler 1   Brown-cheeked Fulvetta 6
  Sakhalin Leaf Warbler 2   Moustached Babbler 1
  Asian Brown Flycatcher 1   Puff-throated Babbler 1
  Yellow-eared Spiderhunter 2   Chestnut-naped Forktail 2
  Grey Wagtail 1   Orange-bellied Flowerpecker 2
        Little Spiderhunter 2
  Bang Lang Count      
  Great Argus 2   Krung Ching Count
  Grey-rumped Treeswift 3   Great Argus 2
  Whiskered Treeswift 1   Blyth's Frogmouth 2
  Asian Palm Swift 3   Whiskered Treeswift 1
  Greater Coucal 4   Germain's Swiftlet 4
  Raffles's Malkoha 2   Silver-rumped Spinetail 2
  Asian Koel 1   Greater Coucal 3
  Violet Cuckoo 1   Raffles's Malkoha 3
  Banded Bay Cuckoo 3   Chestnut-breasted Malkoha 2
  Plaintive Cuckoo 1   Violet Cuckoo 3
  Rusty-breasted Cuckoo 2   Banded Bay Cuckoo 1
  Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo 4   Plaintive Cuckoo 2
  Spotted Dove 1   Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo 4
  Common Emerald Dove 3   Spotted Dove 2
  Thick-billed Green Pigeon 2   Thick-billed Green Pigeon 2
  Malayan Night Heron 2   Little Cormorant 1
  Chinese Pond Heron 1   Chinese Pond Heron 3
  Crested Honey Buzzard 1   Crested Honey Buzzard 1
  White-bellied Sea Eagle 1   Orange-breasted Trogon 2
  Reddish Scops Owl 1   White-crowned Hornbill 2
  Sunda Scops Owl 1   Black Hornbill 2
  Barred Eagle-Owl 3   Banded Kingfisher 1
  Scarlet-rumped Trogon 3   White-throated Kingfisher 1
  Great Hornbill 2   Golden-whiskered Barbet 4
  Helmeted Hornbill 1   Red-throated Barbet 4
  Bushy-crested Hornbill 12   Blue-eared Barbet 2
  Rufous-collared Kingfisher 1   Rufous Piculet 1
  Lineated Barbet 1   Olive-backed Woodpecker 1
  Golden-whiskered Barbet 2   Banded Broadbill 4
  Red-throated Barbet 3   Black-and-yellow Broadbill 4
  Yellow-crowned Barbet 3   Green Broadbill 2
  Black-eared Barbet 2   Blue-winged Pitta 1
  Sooty Barbet 1   Golden-bellied Gerygone 1
  Rufous Piculet 2   Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike 2
  Banded Woodpecker 2   Large Woodshrike 1
  Crimson-winged Woodpecker 1   Rufous-winged Philentoma 3
  Olive-backed Woodpecker 1   Maroon-breasted Philentoma 2
  Maroon Woodpecker 1   Fiery Minivet 1
  Great Slaty Woodpecker 2   Brown Shrike 1
  Blue-crowned Hanging Parrot 3   Dark-throated Oriole 3
  Black-and-red Broadbill 2   Sultan Tit 2
  Black-and-yellow Broadbill 4   Grey-cheeked Bulbul 3
  Green Broadbill 2   Eastern Crowned Warbler 1
  Malayan Banded Pitta 1   Sakhalin Leaf Warbler 3
  Blue-winged Pitta 2   Common Tailorbird 1
  Rufous-winged Philentoma 4   Dark-necked Tailorbird 1
  Common Iora 1   Chestnut-winged Babbler 4
  Brown Shrike 1   Pin-striped Tit-Babbler 10
  White-bellied Erpornis 1   Moustached Babbler 2
  Dark-throated Oriole 2   Puff-throated Babbler 2
  Crow-billed Drongo 1   Oriental Magpie-Robin 2
  Greater Racket-tailed Drongo 2   White-rumped Shama 4
  Blyth's Paradise Flycatcher 1   Asian Brown Flycatcher 1
  Large-billed Crow 3   Blue-winged Leafbird 1
  Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher 1   Orange-bellied Flowerpecker 2
  Black-headed Bulbul 2   Brown-throated Sunbird 2
  Yellow-vented Bulbul 2   Crimson Sunbird 2
  Grey-cheeked Bulbul 2   Little Spiderhunter 2
  Yellow-bellied Bulbul 2   Grey-breasted Spiderhunter 1
  Hairy-backed Bulbul 1   Eurasian Tree Sparrow 6
  Buff-vented Bulbul 2      
  Streaked Bulbul 2      
  Barn Swallow 6      
  Arctic Warbler 1      
  Dark-necked Tailorbird 2      
  Grey-headed Babbler 2      
  Chestnut-winged Babbler 10      
  Pin-striped Tit-Babbler 10      
  Fluffy-backed Tit-Babbler 2      
  Brown Fulvetta 2      
  Moustached Babbler 2      
  Scaly-crowned Babbler 7      
  Rufous-crowned Babbler 2      
  Ferruginous Babbler 1      
  Puff-throated Babbler 2      
  Malayan Black-capped Babbler 2      
  Oriental Magpie-Robin 3      
  Chestnut-naped Forktail 2      
  Scarlet-breasted Flowerpecker 1      
  Puple-naped Spiderhunter 2      
  Little Spiderhunter 2      
  Long-billed Spiderhunter 3      
  Spectacled Spiderhunter 1      
  Eurasian Tree Sparrow 10