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Northern central Thailand: 13 - 17 Jul 2020


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13 - 17 July 2020.
Variable cloud cover. Some afternoon rain. Temperatures ranged from 26°C to 34°C.
Thung Salaeng Luang National Park, Nam Nao National Park, Phu Khieo Wildlife Sanctuary, Khelang Banphot National Park and Hang Chat Arboretum.

With Steve Tibbett. Although still officially under a state of emergency, ostensibly due to the Covid-19 virus situation, travel restrictions within Thailand had been easing since the start of July, such that now it was possible for us to make a first excursion outside of Chiang Mai province. Several localities were considered, but eastward toward Phetchabun was chosen as that area was likely to receive the least amount of rain, given our timing at the beginning of the monsoon. Birds, butterflies and dragonflies were the main focus.

13 Jul. Heavy overnight rain had eased as we left Chiang Mai at 06:45, with the weather gradually improving as we headed eastward. Our first stop was Poi Waterfall, a site we'd seen in passing previously but never investigated. Although officially within the Thung Salaeng Luang National Park, entry was free as the area is simply a recreation stop with a few eating kiosks and a small set of falls at the river. Exploration of the area took little time, as the level of water in the river meant no exposed edges for puddling butterflies. A short walk in the adjacent forest found Indian Palm Bob, Lurcher and many mosquitos.

Dawnas Royal
Dawnas Royal

Crimson-tailed Marsh Hawk
Crimson-tailed Marsh Hawk

Lestes dorothea
Lestes dorothea

Coral-billed Ground Cuckoo
Coral-billed Ground Cuckoo

Jewelled Nawab
Jewelled Nawab

Blue Leaf Blue
Blue Leaf Blue

After an hour we pressed-on the short distance to Kaeng Sopha Waterfall, arriving at the entrance by 14:00, just as rain started to fall. As usual, as these falls are well inside the park the official entry price for foreigners is an outrageous 500 Baht. However, a short discussion with staff at the checkpoint eventually permitted us entry for the 40 Baht Thai price. No way is this waterfall worth 500 Baht. Having checked in, signed the log and had our temperature recorded, we drove the two kilometres to the falls where immediately, with impeccable timing, heavy rain started, confining us to the vehicle for 45 minutes.

When the rain finally eased we investigated the falls and walked the entrance road; but the cool, overcast and damp conditions were not conducive to wildlife activity of any sort. Surprisingly, at 15:45 staff came to inform us the waterfall closes at 16:00 and we should leave. Really? We'd have been really peeved if we'd paid 500 Baht for that experience! Due to the weather and time of day, we skipped a last hour around the main northern entrance of the park and continued to Lomsak for the night. A short bird list for the day due to the paltry selection of species encountered.

14 Jul. We headed to Nam Nao. As there were no access issues we spent most of the day along the track to Phu Goom Khao. A day of both excellent weather and wildlife, with a fair few butterflies, including the long sought after Dawnas Royal, as well as Tonkin Black Prince, Painted Bushbrown, Singleton, Small Grass Yellow and Siamese Pale Grass Yellow. Most of the usual and expected bird species were recorded plus an amazing record of Coral-billed Ground Cuckoo running across the track. Although known from Nam Nao, this is a rarely encountered species here. In the dragonfly line we found Lestes dorothea, Ceriagrion azureum, Gomphidictinus perakensis and Tetrathemis platyptera of note. We left when showers started, at 15:45, arriving at Phu Khieo by 17:15.

15 Jul. As usual, entry to Phu Khieo is not possible before 08:00, due to the possibility of marauding elephants early morning and late afternoon. The day was spent in a series of stops searching for birds and butterflies along the 20 kilometre entrance road. Always something interesting to be found here, with good numbers of butterflies including Jewelled Nawab and another Dawnas Royal. Better birds included Austen's Brown Hornbill, Bar-backed Partridge, Indian Cuckoo, Banded Kingfisher, Long-tailed Broadbill, Blue Pitta, Black-throated Laughingthrush and Sultan Tit, plus the day's highlight of yet another Coral-billed Ground Cuckoo, with a single bird strolling across the road mid afternoon. Other than heavy rain for an hour around noon, a day of good weather. On our drive out we encountered Indochinese Grey Langur and a large group of Rhesus Macaque.

16 Jul. Another session in Phu Khieo, repeating much the same strategy as yesterday though managing to add several more species to the trip list. Rain again, around midday, stopped by 13:00 allowing us a final hour of activity before we headed off at 14:00 to drive to Phitsanulok where we spent the night.

17 Jul. Although we'd planned a morning at Wiang Kosai National Park, we deviated en route to Si Satchanalai National Park, only to find the park closed due to Covid-19 restrictions. So back to the original plan, we headed to Wiang Kosai, arriving around 10:00, only to find this closed too. With no other interesting locations on our radar, we simply headed toward Chiang Mai with the thought to stop anywhere that looked to have reasonable habitat and might actually be open. The first place we encountered was Khelang Banphot National Park, just outside Lampang. This park is new and was formerly known as the Khelang Banphot Arboretum. To say the staff were surprised to see anyone turn up, let along foreigners, would be an understatement, but they more than happy to let us in. Admission was even free, so maybe they were not fully open, or totally unprepared, though as usual we had to sign in and have our temperatures recorded. The forest here was very dry with nothing in the way of streams or damp gullies, and only a limited drivable road. The viewpoint is also not a viewpoint as totally blocked by trees. However, in a couple of hours here we recorded a few butterflies, including Blue Leaf Blue which appeared rather common at this locality.

Continuing north, past Lampang we stopped at Hang Chat Arboretum, where again the staff were happy and surprised to see visitors. A final hour recorded a number of dragonfly species. We completed our drive to Chiang Mai, then finished with a couple of celebratory sundowners.

Species List

  Thung Salaeng Luang Count   Phu Khieo Count
  Greater Coucal 2   Coral-billed Ground Cuckoo 1
  Green-billed Malkoha 4   Greater Flameback 1
  Common Emerald Dove 3   Collared Owlet 1
  Asian Barred Owlet 1   Banded Kingfisher 1
  Blue-eared Barbet 1   White-tailed Robin 1
  Greater Yellownape 2   Grey Wagtail 1
  Hair-crested Drongo 3   Indian Cuckoo 2
  Eastern Jungle Crow 1   White-breasted Waterhen 2
  Pin-striped Tit-Babbler 3   Crested Serpent Eagle 2
  Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrush 2   Long-tailed Broadbill 2
  White-crested Laughingthrush 4   Blue Pitta 2
        Black-crested Bulbul 2
  Nam Nao Count   Black-throated Laughingthrush 2
  Bar-backed Partridge 2   Common Myna 2
  Red Junglefowl 1   Austen's Brown Hornbill 3
  Greater Coucal 1   Grey-eyed Bulbul 3
  Coral-billed Ground Cuckoo 1   Bar-backed Partridge 4
  Barred Cuckoo-Dove 2   White-crested Laughingthrush 4
  Mountain Imperial Pigeon 2   Sultan Tit 4
  Great Barbet 3   Red Junglefowl 5
  Greater Yellownape 2   Red-billed Blue Magpie 6
  Greater Flameback 1   Orange-breasted Trogon 6
  Bay Woodpecker 1   Oriental Pied Hornbill 10
  Large Cuckooshrike 2      
  Black-hooded Oriole 2      
  Eurasian Jay 2      
  Red-billed Blue Magpie 3      
  Sooty-headed Bulbul 2      
  Rufescent Prinia 4      
  White-rumped Shama 2