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26 Nov - 6 Dec 2021.
Very pleasant and dry, with variable cloud cover. Temperatures ranged from 12°C to 28°C.
Mae Ping National Park, Doi Inthanon National Park, Doi Lang, Tham Pha Nang Khoi, Tham Pha Tup Forest Park, Phu Hin Rong Kla National Park, Nam Nao National Park, Phu Khieo Wildlife Sanctuary, Thung Salaeng Luang National Park and Wiang Kosai National Park.

Dawnas Royal

Hainan Blue Flycatcher

26 Nov. Early afternoon, having checked into our accommodations, we headed to Mae Ping. Although listed on the Department of National Park's website as being only partly open we had no issues in gaining access or birding the Thung Kik road. Other than questioning if we'd been vaccinated, and a quick temperature check, we were in. A selection of the usual suspects included Grey-headed Parakeet, Black-headed Woodpecker and vocal Great Slaty Woodpecker, but not the hoped for Burmese Nuthatch. A Dawnas Royal butterfly was a major surprise. Discovering a rather flat tyre on the vehicle, and the rental not having a spare, we returned to town, only to find all repair shops closed after 18:00. Fortunately, having more than one vehicle, we had a portable compressor with us, saving the day.

27 Nov. An early return to Mae Ping continued with yesterday's hunt for Burmese Nuthatch, which again was unsuccessful. Another target, Blue-throated Flycatcher, we also failed to locate, though we did see Hainan Blue Flycatcher plus several more woodpecker species. We left around 10:30, successfully replacing the damaged tyre in Li, then continuing to Doi Inthanon. Despite stories circulating that it was necessary to pre-book access to Doi Inthanon, and that today was also a Saturday, we were waved in with little checking. We now split into two, surveying both Km 34 for Black-chinned Parrotbill and higher up for Speckled Wood Pigeon. Both attempts were spectacular failures.

29 Nov. The whole day was spent on the western side of Doi Lang, mainly hoping for Mrs. Hume's Pheasant. We started at the usual photographers' stakeout, but by 08:30 none had appeared, and even the photographers gave up. Most of the remainder of the day then spent in a series of drives and walks, birding the road. Over the course of the day a good selection of species were encountered including Mountain Bamboo Partridge, Cook's Swift, Grey-headed Parakeet, Short-billed Minivet, Burmese Shrike, Buff-throated Warbler, Martens's Warbler, Claudia's Leaf Warbler, Spot-breasted Parrotbill, Grey-headed Parrotbill, Indian White-eye, Rufous-backed Sibia, Hume's Treecreeper, Giant Nuthatch, Rufous-bellied Niltava, Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher, Ultramarine Flycatcher, Slaty-blue Flycatcher, Sapphire Flycatcher and Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush. On our drive out, late in the afternoon we finally encountered Mrs. Hume's Pheasant which alas was just a disappearing tail end.

30 Nov. Having not visited the east side of Doi Lang in a long while, and never quite knowing how easy or difficult access will be, we headed to the army camp at the base of the mountain, above Thaton. Although officially the gate opens at 08:00 we arrived at 07:15 and hoped. Quite a few changes have occurred since the last year, and we were informed to purchase a national park ticket at the newly constructed DNP Ranger station located just before the army camp. Evidently the ranger on duty had not previously registered visitors nor collected monies, as he had to phone his boss on the new procedures. The 300 Baht entrance fee is outrageous, especially considering the road up in now in extremely poor condition. Several times we had to step out of the vehicle and check the track for the best route to avoid the many car-eating ruts and pot-holes. Any collected monies should seriously be used on road repairs! With a couple of stops en route, including one for Slender-billed Oriole, we finally made it to the top Border Patrol Police checkpoint around 11:00. As usual, the guys at the checkpoint were quite amiable and today we were even permitted to drive as far as the San Ju Viewpoint, so we spent much of the afternoon in these upper levels of forest. Mid afternoon we left for the lengthy return drive since it's necessary to be off the mountain by 17:00. A good list of species encountered during the day included at least 50 Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon, Striated Bulbul, Crested Finchbill, Black-eared Shrike-babbler and Eyebrowed Thrush.

Grey-headed Parrotbill

Ultramarine Flycatcher

Buff-throated Warbler

Annam Limestone Babbler

Jerdon's Bush Chat

1 Dec. A final morning's attempt for Mrs. Hume's Pheasant failed again, so at 11:00 we left to drive to Nan. Late afternoon we stopped at Tham Pha Nang Khoi where we heard Annam Limestone Babbler, but failed to get anywhere close to it. Overnight in Nan city, where relaxed Covid restrictions meant we could even have some beers with our dinner - the first time in a year, and very welcome.

2 Dec. We drove the short distance north to Tham Pha Tup. Although officially the park does not open until 08:00 access is readily possible, so we explored the trail into the surrounding limestone karst. Hearing Annam Limestone Babbler here was easy as the species is common, and we immediately found at least six singing birds. However, the acoustics of the habitat made locating these individuals nigh on impossible and after 40 minutes of trying we gave up and returned to the more open areas at the start of the trail. This proved much more fruitful with a least four birds foraging near the base of the karst. Our target found, we left around 08:30, retuned to Nan, checked out, and continued with our long drive to Lomsak. Traffic being less heavy than expected, we actually arrived in town with sufficient time for at least half an hour's birding in the mountains at Phu Hin Rong Kla. This proved extremely fortuitous as both Jerdon's Bush Chat and Nepal House Martin were found late in the day, meaning a return trip tomorrow would not be necessary. An overnight in Lomsak, where beers were again off the menu.

Three-spot Yamfly

Lesser Albatross

3 Dec. With Richard having departed to Hua Hin and Phil to Khao Yai the remainder of the trip was primarily devoted to butterflies; although December can hardly be considered the optimal time, being well into the cool season. However, a reasonably productive day was spent at Nam Nao, finding Siamese Pale Grass Yellow, Dot-dash Sergeant, Burmese Bushblue and Waxy Dart. Birds were little in evidence, but did include Grey-headed Woodpecker and Bar-backed Partridge. Mid afternoon, continued to the one horse town of Chum Phae in search of a simple guesthouse for the night. Restaurant options were severely lacking.

4 Dec. A rather cool start to the day at 12°C. Drove the 40 minutes to Phu Khieo, presented vaccination certificate and spent the whole day along the long entrance road and beyond, around the headquarters. Notably, a new Nature Trail has been constructed near the headquarters, though insufficient time was available to thoroughly check it out. Again due to the cool weather, little of note found, with highlights being Tiger Lascar, Blue Spotted Crow, Three-spot Yamfly and Lesser Albatross. The road through the sanctuary was notably more pot-holed than during previous visits. Returned to Chum Phae.

Chinese Francolin

Best sightings were Chinese Francolin and Barred Buttonquail. A late afternoon drive to Phitsanulok city where the usual hotel was surprisingly full, so had to drive around to find availability.

White-edged Blue Baron