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Northern central Thailand: 27 Feb - 4 Mar 2022


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27 Feb - 4 Mar 2022.
Dry throughout. Variable cloud cover. Temperatures ranged from 18°C to 34°C.
Wiang Kosai National Park, Nam Nao National Park and Phu Khieo Wildlife Sanctuary.

With Steve Tibbett. This trip was timed specifically to search for the very scarce Pale Hockey-stick Sailor Neptis manasa, a butterfly that had eluded us for at least the past five years! Naturally, birds, dragonflies, moths, or anything that moved were also noted. Timing was optimised for the sailor, but was of course good for most wildlife, being well into the dry season.

27 Feb. A couple of hours drive to Wiang Kosai in Phrae province, where we spent four hours around the waterfall and along the 700 metre Nature Trail. As usual the birding here was exceptionally poor, though a few butterflies were of interest - especially Dawnas Royal. Halfway up the waterfall trail we encountered a decrepit paper sign warning of snakes in the area. Really? Snakes in national parks? Who'da thunk that? We were even chased up the waterfall and warned about it by the rangers. Needless to say we didn't encounter any. Mid afternoon we drove to Lomsak in Phetchabun province. It was nice to be able legally to have a beer with dinner; Covid restrictions being less severe in this province.

28 Feb. A full day at Nam Nao, encountering a good list of both birds and butterflies, including Rufous Woodpecker, Violet Cuckoo, Common Green Magpie, Indian Yellow Sailor, Long-stick Sailor, Great Jay and Karen Silverline. Unfortunately despite a lot of effort we failed to encounter any Pale Hockey-stick Sailor. Late afternoon we decided to check out the Sunset Viewpoint, only to find the wooden benches rotted away and the view now blocked by five metre high bamboo. About time someone at the park checked out their tourist attractions! A second night at Lomsak.

1 Mar. Rather than returning to Nam Nao we thought it better wait a couple of days between visits, so opted for Phu Khieo. The morning was spent along the entrance road, then mid afternoon we tried the shorter loop of the newly constructed Nature Trail where, despite the incredibly dry conditions. we still managed a leech or two. On one of the lakes near the headquarters a pair of White-winged Duck were feeding, one of which was ringed and obviously a released individual. A fair number of Coral-billed Ground Cuckoo were heard and a flock of ten Austen's Brown Hornbill encountered. We had intended to overnight close by, near the Chulabhorn Dam, but a Covid outbreak meant the accommodation was closed, so we returned to the main highway at Chum Phae for a couple of nights. Accommodation was found readily, but eating options were dire, so we ended up with a 7-Eleven takeaway.

2 Mar. Another full day at Phu Khieo with, again, no success searching for Pale Hockey-stick Sailor. During our two days here other birding highlights included Grey-headed Woodpecker, Blue Pitta, Siamese Fireback, Sultan Tit, Long-tailed Broadbill and Violet Cuckoo. As usual, a good selection of butterflies, including Yellow Rajah, Indian Yellow Sailor, Sergeant Emperor, White Emperor, Blue Kaiser, Red-spot Sawtooth and White Dryad.

3 Mar. A return to Nam Nao, with basically a repeat of the strategy we'd adopted three days previously. The highlight of the day was finding an unringed White-winged Duck dabbling in leaf litter on a remote rocky river; the first confirmed sighting for the park, and presumably originating from the expanding population of Phu Khieo. We also had fleeting fly-by views of a single Pale Hockey-stick Sailor. Very frustrating due to no photo opportunity. A late afternoon drive to Lomsak for our final evening.

4 Mar. Left pre-sunrise to drive to Wiang Kosai again, where we again walked the waterfall and nature trails. The most interesting species found was White-browed Piculet - the first time we'd encountered it here. An afternoon return to Chaing Mai.

Dawnas Royal
Dawnas Royal

Rufous Woodpecker
Rufous Woodpecker

White Dryad
White Dryad

White Emperor
White Emperor

White-winged Duck
White-winged Duck

Species List

  Phu Khieo Count   Wiang Kosai Count
  White-winged Duck 2   Red Junglefowl 2
  Siamese Fireback 7   Shikra 2
  Green Peafowl 3   Lineated Barbet 1
  Green-legged Partridge 6   Blue-throated Barbet 4
  Red Junglefowl 7   White-browed Piculet 1
  Coral-billed Ground Cuckoo 4   Common Iora 2
  Violet Cuckoo 5   Black-naped Monarch 2
  Banded Bay Cuckoo 2   Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher 2
  Plaintive Cuckoo 1   Puff-throated Bulbul 8
  Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo 4   Grey-eyed Bulbul 1
  Spotted Dove 2   Black-crested Bulbul 2
  Common Emerald Dove 5   Barn Swallow 4
  Thick-billed Green Pigeon 4   Radde's Warbler 1
  Mountain Imperial Pigeon 1   Dark-necked Tailorbird 2
  Red-wattled Lapwing 1   Rufous-fronted Babbler 2
  Striated Heron 1   White-rumped Shama 3
  Little Egret 1   Taiga Flycatcher 3
  Crested Serpent Eagle 1      
  Shikra 2   Nam Nao Count
  Collared Owlet 2   White-winged Duck 1
  Asian Barred Owlet 1   Red Junglefowl 4
  Orange-breasted Trogon 3   Green-billed Malkoha 1
  Red-headed Trogon 2   Violet Cuckoo 2
  Oriental Pied Hornbill 6   Oriental Turtle Dove 4
  Austen's Brown Hornbill 10   Spotted Dove 2
  Banded Kingfisher 3   Thick-billed Green Pigeon 50
  Blue-bearded Bee-eater 3   Black Baza 2
  Great Barbet 1   Crested Serpent Eagle 3
  Moustached Barbet 4   Asian Barred Owlet 1
  Coppersmith Barbet 1   Orange-breasted Trogon 2
  Speckled Piculet 1   Red-headed Trogon 3
  Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker 1   Moustached Barbet 6
  Greater Yellownape 2   Greater Yellownape 2
  Grey-headed Woodpecker 1   Greater Flameback 3
  Greater Flameback 2   Rufous Woodpecker 3
  Bay Woodpecker 3   Vernal Hanging Parrot 5
  Vernal Hanging Parrot 4   Large Woodshrike 1
  Long-tailed Broadbill 6   Large Cuckooshrike 4
  Blue Pitta 3   Black-hooded Oriole 5
  Common Iora 2   Bronzed Drongo 4
  Black-winged Cuckooshrike 1   Red-billed Blue Magpie 4
  Black-hooded Oriole 2   Common Green Magpie 3
  Bronzed Drongo 4   Large-billed Crow 4
  Red-billed Blue Magpie 2   Sultan Tit 6
  Common Green Magpie 2   Puff-throated Bulbul 8
  Large-billed Crow 3   Yellow-browed Warbler 1
  Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher 2   Claudia's Leaf Warbler 1
  Sultan Tit 10   Puff-throated Babbler 4
  Puff-throated Bulbul 6   White-crested Laughingthrush 9
  Grey-eyed Bulbul 3   Taiga Flycatcher 3
  Black-crested Bulbul 4   White-rumped Munia 2
  Striated Swallow 3      
  Yellow-browed Warbler 2      
  Radde's Warbler 1      
  Dark-necked Tailorbird 2      
  Pin-striped Tit-Babbler 10      
  White-browed Scimitar Babbler 1      
  Collared Babbler 4      
  Puff-throated Babbler 3      
  White-crested Laughingthrush 12      
  White-rumped Shama 3      
  Taiga Flycatcher 3      
  Little Spiderhunter 1      
  Grey Wagtail 1