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12 - 18 Mar 2023.
Mostly dry. Rain some evenings. Temperatures ranged from 20°C to 36°C.
Thaksin Maharat National Park, Umphang Wildlife Sanctuary and Lan Sang National Park.

Broad Spark

Ayeyarwady Bulbul

Chocolate Commodore

Spirama helicina

Jewelled Nawab

Due to the annual forest burn of Southeast Asia, air quality was considerably worse than usual, with hazardous levels of pollution widespread across the region.

12 Mar. We left Chiang Mai early, arriving at Thaksin Maharat by 11:30. The forest was exceptionally dry, with little bird or butterfly activity. Even near the few remaining damp gullies and ponds we found almost nothing. The only butterfly of note was a single Broad Spark - one of the few records from western Thailand. Only a handful of birds were vocal - including White-throated Bulbul. Overnight at Mae Sot.

13 Mar. Some heavy pre-dawn rain finally gave some respite from the smoke pollution. From Mae Sot, it was a two plus hour drive to upper levels of forest north of Umphang. At 1,200 metres the whole day was overcast and very windy for the time of year, which inevitably led to another poor day in the field for butterflies. Birds of note included Grey Peacock-Pheasant heard, Kalij Pheasant, numerous Oriental Turtle Dove and Mountain Hawk-Eagle. On arrival at Umphang a single Ayeyarwady Bulbul was found in the garden of the accommodation, though it took a further four days for us to obtain any decent views.

14 Mar. Figuring that proximity to water should be better for insects we headed to Thi Lo Su waterfall, the highest in Thailand. The entry fee for foreigners to all Thai wildlife sanctuaries has recently been raised to an eye-watering 400 Baht; whilst locals still pay only 30 Baht. The entry price for vehicles has also risen to 60 Baht, though at least this fee is standardised, without a 1,000% mark-up for foreigners. Maybe next year, vehicles not made in Thailand will be charged 600 Baht? From the entrance, it's a 24 kilometre drive through forest to the start of the waterfall trail. However, it was disappointing to see practically all the forest along the route burnt by fires, and devoid of wildlife. The 1.5 kilometre walk to the falls, through good forest, usually produces something of interest. Today though was not up to the usual standard, although with persistence, a long half day did manage a fair collection, including Western Kaiser, Pan and Brown Yam.

15 Mar. We again tried the upper altitude forest we'd visited two days ago. With the weather considerably improved, a better selection of species was found, with Chocolate Commodore, Variable Sailor and Common Peacock, though none of the specific rarities we were hoping for. Whilst exploring, late afternoon, we found an interesting side track which looked good for a future visit, along which we found a splendid Spirama helicina. Rain showers returned in the early evening.

16 Mar. Another full day along the waterfall trail, producing similar results. On our return to Umphang we dropped into Tham Takhobi Forest Park to check it out, but found it of little interest nature-wise.

17 Mar. Since we were heading in a homeward direction, we again spent several hours in higher forest, with again none of our targets found. A couple of Rusty-naped Pitta and Grey Peacock-Pheasant were calling near the sanctuary offices. Overnight at Mae Sot, where we tried a different hotel since our usual was full.

18 Mar. All things being normal, we would have repeated a morning visit to Thaksin Maharat. However, given the dismal selection we'd found previously, we opted to try Lan Sang. With its lower elevation and flowing river, a much better collection of butterflies was found - somewhere in excess of 45 species - including Jewelled Nawab and Siam Babul Blue. Afternoon drive to Chiang Mai.