Itinerary
20 Apr. We took the 10:00 Thai Airways flight from Bangkok to Brunei, with an Air Brunei connection to Kota Kinabalu. Both flights were on time and, surprise, our luggage arrived on the same flights as ourselves. Kota Kinabalu is a very small international airport, but we had no problems changing money and reconfirming flights , though only one of the two car rental agencies at the airport was open. Unfortunately this one had no cars available, so we took a taxi (12.5 RM) to the previously reserved Hotel Bajaya which was adequate and comfortable. The hotel desk was helpful in providing car rental leaflets, so we arranged drop off of a small Proton the following morning with AIS rental.
21 Apr. AIS delivered the car on time at 08:00, though an hour was lost to repairs of the non-functioning electric windows. Rental charge was 1,000 RM per week with unlimited kilometres. Our next stop was a visit to the Kinabalu Gold Resorts Office to reconfirm our previously arranged accommodation in Kinabalu Park. Sadly, they could not find our reservation, but accepted it. Having stocked up on juices, biscuits and other snack foods we headed out from Kota Kinabalu toward to mountain. It took several attempts and quite a few stops to ask for directions, but we eventually found the correct road toward Ranau, arriving at the park around 16:00 stopping en route for lunch at the Ramada Restaurant which had a good view. Weather at the park was pretty miserable with low cloud and rain. Discovered our room electrical socket did not work, so no heater, and worse, no coffee.
22 Apr. Awoke to continuing overcast and cool weather. We spent the day walking several of the many trails near and around the park headquarters. Luckily we escaped the heavy rain around midday having just returned to the restaurant for lunch. More walking in the afternoon until rain around 16:00 forced us to return to our cabin. Although we had originally intended to start climbing the mountain the following day, the poor weather detered us. Heavy rain and strong winds all night.
23 Apr. Around 08:00 the rain eased up, so we walked the longest trail along the Liwagu River, leaving the car at the power station end. We spent a productive morning walking the trail, but were unable to find the Whitehead’s Trogon, and only getting caught in one heavy rain shower. After lunch the skies opened with heavy rain, so we paid for a lift from one of the park workers (10 RM) to collect our car from the power station. At around 16:00 we gave up waiting for the rain to stop and took the car down the mountain in search of a different habitat. The strong winds and rain had forced many trees down across the roads. We spent the last hour of light, in the rain, peering at some water birds in the flooded fields en route to Kota Belud.
24 Apr. As this was our last full day on the mountain we concentrated our efforts on the elusive trogon, which remained elusive despite walking the Silau-Silau trail more than once. The best find of the day was a Whitehead’s Broadbill which allowed telescope views right from the roadside. Weather again generally overcast and showery.
25 Apr. The morning was spent walking the Silau-Silau trail and some way along the power-station road. After checkout at 10:30 we headed off down the mountain side to hopefully better weather at Poring. A brief stop en route at Ranau. We arrived at Poring shortly after lunch and checked into our “house” - not bad for 69 RM a day. After a late lunch we headed up to the canopy walkway, an excellent experience, especially as the first bird we saw was a Scarlet-rumped Trogon at eye-level. We stayed in the canopy until we were thrown out around 18:00. After dark we had a long lay in the hot sulphur baths - excellent after a day in the forest.
26 Apr. Up with the dawn chorus at 06:00. After experiencing the cloud and rain on the mountain it was a welcome relief to have warm, bright weather. After a walk around the gardens and campsite, seeing little, we took the short trail to the river, and then up to the canopy again which was by then, due to the heat, not particularly productive. A late breakfast, after which we walked the longer, steep, trail to Langadan Waterfall. The birding was very slow, and in two hours we saw little, so we turned around short of the waterfall. A late lunch, and another trip up the hill to the canopy walkway where we again stayed till we were again thrown out.
26 Apr. This morning we started in the large clearing just after the main hot-spring area. Some interesting birds encountered including Banded Woodpecker, Plaintive Cuckoo, Grey-breasted Spiderhunter and White-crowned Shama. Following checkout and breakfast we finished our stay with another trip to the canopy walkway and a walk of the two short trails to the first waterfall. We then drove back to Kinabalu park, had lunch, and in unexpectedly good weather walked the Silau-Silau trail (again) for the magical trogon - alas seeing nothing. As the weather was relatively clear we looked at some areas along the power-station road finding Golden-naped Barbet, and the Whitehead’s Broadbill in exactly the same area. Drove back to Kota Kinabalu and checked into the Tang Dynasty Hotel, a flashy 4-star hotel at the amazingly cheap rate of 95 RM a night. Dinner at the Banana Leaf Restaurant down the road - another place with no beer.
27 Apr. Deciding to make the most of this day we got up early and took a taxi to the harbour to negotiate visiting Palau Gaya for a few hours. Agreed on 50 RM for the return trip and after a detour to the fishing village, to get a fuel can, landed at the island. We walked the trail westward along the beach and then over the top, looping back to the headquarters. This was very disappointing, as a storm had evidently devastated the area a couple of years ago, felling all the large trees. The large quantity of secondary growth that has sprung-up now makes the trail quite difficult. A hot and largely birdless morning. Returned to the hotel by 12:00, developed some films and had a quick lunch. Then after we headed out of town, now knowing the way, to Kota Belud where we spent the afternoon watching birds around the large lake along the roadside. Herons, whistling ducks, terns and gallinules much in evidence. Returned to KK by 20:00, only getting lost once and again dinner in the Bananaleaf Restaurant.
27 Apr. Not having to be at the airport until around 10:30 we had a plenty of time to return the car and get to the airport. Unfortunately we could not find the rental car office so ended up phoning from the airport for the company to collect. Malaysian Airlines flight departed on time.
Systematic List
Wandering Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna arcuata
Kota Belud; 60+ (28/4) in flooded fields.
Little Egret Egretta garzetta
Kinabalu; a few on the road out of town (28/4).
Medium Egret Egretta intermedia
Kinabalu; 1 (28/4).
Purple Heron Ardea purpurea
Kinabalu; 1 (28/4). Kota Belud; 3 (28/4)
Eastern Cattle Egret Ardea coromandus
Common in lowlands around Kota Belud (27/4).
Javan Pond-Heron Ardeola speciosa
Kota Belud; 2-3 adults in breeding plumage feeding in flooded fields.
Striated Heron Butorides striatus
Kota Belud; 2 (28/4).
Yellow Bittern Botaurus sinensis
Route to Kota Belud; 4 in the flooded fields beside the road (23/4). Kota Belud (28/4).
Cinnamon Bittern Botaurus cinnamomeus
Route to Kota Belud; 2 in the flooded fields beside the road (23/4). Kota Belud; 3 (28/4).
Besra Accipiter virgatus
Mount Kinabalu; 2 immature birds in forest along the Silau-Silau trail (24/4).
Changeable Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus cirrhatus
Mount Kinabalu; One overhead at one of the upper viewpoints near the power station (23/4).
Crimson-headed Partridge Haematortyx sanguiniceps
Species endemic to Borneo. Mt. Kinabalu; 2+ at upper end of Silau-Silau trail (25/4).
White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus
Route to Kota Belud; 4+ in the flooded fields beside the road (23/4). Kota Belud; 4 (28/4).
White-browed Crake Poliolimnas cinereus
Route to Kota Belud; 4+ in the flooded fields beside the road (23/4).
Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio
Kota Belud; Two in flight (28/4) around the flooded fields.
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Route to Kota Belud; 2+ in flooded fields beside the road (23/4). Kota Belud; 30+ (28/4).
Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia
Kota Belud; 2 heard (28/4).
Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola
Route to Kota Belud; 2 in the flooded fields beside the road (23/4).
Common Sandpiper Tringa hypoleucos
Route to Kota Belud; 2 in the flooded fields beside the road (23/4).
Oriental Pratincole Glareola maldivarum
Kota Belud; One in the flooded fields (28/4).
Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus
Kota Belud; 10+ (28/4), a few in breeding plumage.
Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis
Common in lowland areas.
Little Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia ruficeps
Mt. Kinabalu; two seen well feeding in trees around the car park by the restaurant (27/4).
Green Imperial-Pigeon Ducula aenea
Palau Gaya; 3 flying over as we left (28/4).
Mountain Imperial-Pigeon Ducula badia
Mt. Kinabalu; 2-3 daily (22-24,27/4).
Blue-crowned Hanging-Parrot Loriculus galgulus
Poring; A few flying over seen each time from the canopy walkway (26-27/4).
Indian Cuckoo Cuculus micropterus
Poring; One seen very well in trees near the restaurant (26/4).
Plaintive Cuckoo Cacomantis merulinus
Poring; one seen perched in tree top of large clearing on morning (27/4). Several others calling throughout the day.
Little Bronze-Cuckoo Chalcites minutillus
Poring; 1 (26/4), and 2 (27/4).
Raffles' Malkoha Phaenicophaeus chlorophaeus
Poring; Singles flying across the large clearing (26,27/4).
Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis
Kota Belud; 1 (28/4).
Sunda Scops Owl Otus lempiji
Poring; 1 calling from the enclosure behind the staff accommodation after dark (26/4).
Malaysian Nightjar Eurostopodus temminckii
Poring; 2 (26/4) feeding high over the forest behind the hot-springs (26/4) just after sunset.
Grey-rumped Treeswift Hemiprocne longipennis
Poring; a few feeding over the gardens and forest (26/4). One seen well, perched in large tree of main clearing (27/4).
White-bellied Swiftlet Collocalia esculenta
Common in most areas. Many nesting under eves of park headquarters at Mt. Kinabalu.
Edible-nest Swiftlet Collocalia fuciphaga
Poring; c20 daily (25-27/4).
Silver-rumped Needletail Rhaphidura leucopygialis
Poring; a few feeding over the gardens and forest (26/4).
Asian Palm-Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis
Poring; up to 6 feeding around palms in the gardens (26-27/4).
Scarlet-rumped Trogon Harpactes duvaucelii
Poring; the first bird we saw from the canopy walkway (25/4). A male allowed lengthy observation.
Blue-eared Kingfisher Alcedo meninting
Route to Kota Belud; 1 perched on fence by the flooded fields beside the road (23/4).
Collared Kingfisher Todirhamphus chloris
Route to Kota Belud; 2 in the flooded fields beside the road (23/4). Kota Belud; 3 (28/4).
Blue-throated Bee-eater Merops viridis
Poring; two birds in open country of road out of Poring (27/4).
Helmeted Hornbill Buceros vigil
Poring; 2 flying across the forest, high above the hot springs on the morning of (26/4).
Wreathed Hornbill Aceros undulatus
Mount Kinabalu; 2 males at the upper viewpoint (24/4). Poring; 5 (27/4).
Golden-naped Barbet Megalaima pulcherrima
Species endemic to Borneo. Mt. Kinabalu; one bird eventually seen calling from upper viewpoint. A common species, but difficult to see.
Bornean Barbet Psilopogon eximius
Species endemic to Borneo. Poring; several calling birds (27/4), but very difficult to see. One seen, in large clearing, morning (27/4).
Speckled Piculet Picumnus innominatus
Poring; one from the canopy walkway (26/4).
Banded Woodpecker Picus mineaceus
Poring; 3+ in the large clearing (26/4).
Maroon Woodpecker Blythipicus rubiginosus
Mt. Kinabalu; A pair calling from forest just above the Silau-Silau trail (24/4). Despite the noisy nature these birds were very difficult to see well, and only poor views obtained. Another, very vocal bird Silau-Silau trail (25/4). Poring; 2 (26/4), and 1 (27/4) in large clearing area.
Buff-rumped Woodpecker Meiglyptes grammithorax
Poring; 1 (27/4).
Grey-and-buff Woodpecker Hemicircus concretus
Poring; 1 (26/4) in the main clearing.
Black-and-red Broadbill Cymbirhynchus macrorhynchos
Poring; One in the gardens of the hot-springs (26/4).
Black-and-yellow Broadbill Eurylaimus ochromalus
Poring; An adult and a juvenile seen at close range from the canopy walkway (26/4).
Whitehead's Broadbill Calyptomena whiteheadi
Species endemic to Borneo. Mt. Kinabalu; Probably the bird of the trip. One along the Liwagu River trail (24/4), and another by the roadside seen very well in the scope (25/4). The later bird was in exactly the same place (27/4). Calling loudly and eating large orange-coloured fruit.
Mangrove Whistler Pachycephala grisola
Palau Gaya; common (28/4), but tough to see well.
Bornean Whistler Pachycephala hypoxantha
Species endemic to Borneo. Mt. Kinabalu; a few daily (23-25/4).
White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis
Mt. Kinabalu; common in all forested areas (23-25/4)..
Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea
Poring; a few from the canopy walkway (27/4).
Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus
Mt. Kinabalu; 1-2 daily near the park headquarters (22-25/4).
Hair-crested Drongo Dicrurus hottentotus
Mt. Kinabalu; A few daily (22-25/4).
Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus
Poring; 1 (27/4) from the canopy walkway.
Short-tailed Magpie Cissa thalassina
Mt. Kinabalu; 1 Liwagu River trail (23/4).
Bornean Treepie Dendrocitta cinerascens
Species endemic to Borneo. Mt. Kinabalu; Very noisy and obvious, especially around the chalets (22-25/4).
White-breasted Woodswallow Artamus leucorynchus
Fairly common in lowland areas.
Common Iora Aegithina tiphia
Poring; 1 (27/4) from the canopy walkway. Palau Gaya; 1 (28/4).
Black-and-crimson Oriole Oriolus consanguineus
Mt. Kinabalu; 1 superb male seen well from the cabin (25/4).
Sunda Cuckooshrike Coracina larvata
Mt. Kinabalu; pr. (22/4).
Pied Triller Lalage nigra
Poring; 1 (27/4) in open country en route to Kinabalu. Kota Belud; 3 (28/4).
Grey-chinned Minivet Pericrocotus solaris
Mt. Kinabalu; 1 (22/4) and 4 (25/4). Some nice views, perched birds in trees outside cabin.
Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus picatus
Poring; 2 (26/4) from the canopy walkway.
Black-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus hirundinaceus
Poring; 3 (25/5) from the canopy walkway.
Asian Fairy-bluebird Irena puella
Poring; 1 from the canopy walkway (25,26/4).
Lesser Green Leafbird Chloropsis cyanopogon
Poring; 2+(27/4) from the large clearing.
Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach
Poring; 1 (27/4) in open country en route to Kinabalu.
Large Woodshrike Tephrodornis gularis
Poring; 2 (26/4), 1 (27/4) from the canopy walkway.
Sunda Whistling-Thrush Myiophoneus glaucinus
Mt. Kinabalu; 1-2 daily (22-25/4), mainly along the Silau-Silau and Liwagu River trails.
Eyebrowed Thrush Turdus obscurus
Mt. Kinabalu; Surprisingly tame, and seen daily around the chalets where very close views could be obtained. Up to 20 daily (22-25/4).
Asian Glossy Starling Aplonis panayensis
Common in open areas in the lowlands.
Asian Brown Flycatcher Muscicapa dauurica
Poring; 1 bird perched on the same snag every day from the canopy walkway (25-27/4).
Mugimaki Flycatcher Ficedula mugimaki
Mt. Kinabalu; A single female near the restaurant (22/4), plus a male outside cabin 10 on the mornings of (23-25/4).
Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra
Mt. Kinabalu; 3 (25/4).
Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni
Mt. Kinabalu; 2-3 (22-25/4) along the roads near the park headquarters.
Blue-and-white Flycatcher Cyanoptila cyanomelana
Poring; One male seen from the canopy walkway (25/4) and (27/4).
Indigo Flycatcher Euymias indigo
Mt. Kinabalu; 2-3 daily (22-25/4), mainly in open areas around the park headquarters and chalets. These birds have much white in the sides of the tail - a feature not illustrated nor mentioned in the field guide.
Pale Blue Flycatcher Cyornis unicolor
Poring; A single bird in the canopy, viewed from the canopy walkway (26/4). Two (27/4).
Dayak Blue Flycatcher Cyornis montanus
Mt. Kinabalu; 2 (23/4).
Grey-headed Flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis
Poring; 2 (25/4) from the canopy walkway.
Oriental Magpie-Robin Copsychus saularis
Fairly common in open lowland areas. The Bornean race differs from most others in having almost black underparts.
White-crowned Shama Copsychus stricklandii
Species endemic to Borneo. Poring; fairly common in dense understorey of the beginning of the main trails (26-27/4). Several seen very well allowing close studies.
Bornean Forktail Enicurus borneensis
Mt. Kinabalu; A few single birds seen along Liwagu river and Silau-Silau trails (22-25/4).
Southern White-crowned Forktail Enicurus leschenaulti
Poring; 1 (26/4) above the first waterfall.
Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis
Poring; 3 (25/4) from canopy walkway.
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
Poring; 10+ (27/4) on road between Poring and Kinabalu (27/4).
Pacific Swallow Hirundo javanica
Fairly common in lowland areas.
Scaly-breasted Bulbul Ixodia squamata
Poring; 2 (27/4) in the large clearing.
Flavescent Bulbul Pycnonotus flavescens
Mt. Kinabalu; 4+ at the power station (24/4).
Yellow-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus goiavier
Common in the lowlands.
Cream-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus simplex
Palau Gaya; a few (28/4).
Red-eyed Bulbul Pycnonotus brunneus
Mt. Kinabalu; 2 (21/4) around the restaurant where stopped for lunch on road to park (22/4). Poring; 2 (25/4). Palau Gaya; common (28/4).
Spectacled Bulbul Ixodia erythropthalmos
Poring; several in forest edge at various places (26-27/4). Common but easily overlooked.
Ochraceous Bulbul Alophoixus ochraceus
Mt. Kinabalu; 2 (22/4), 6+ (24/4).
Hairy-backed Bulbul Tricholestes criniger
Poring; Pair from the canopy walkway (25/4).
Black-capped White-eye Zosterops atricapillus
Mt. Kinabalu; Fairly common. Up to 30 seen daily (22-25/4).
Mountain Black-eye Zosterops emiliae
Species endemic to Borneo. Mt. Kinabalu; 6 near the power station (23/4).
Yellow-bellied Prinia Prinia flaviventris
Kota Belud; 2+ (28/4).
Bornean Stubtail Urosphena whiteheadi
Species endemic to Borneo. Mt. Kinabalu; 2 at the beginning (higher end) of the Liwagu River trail (23/4).
Sunda Bush-Warbler Cettia vulcania
Mt. Kinabalu; A few daily (22-25/4) in grassy edges along the roads.
Oriental Reed-Warbler Acrocephalus orientalis
Kota Belud; 1 (28/4).
Mountain Tailorbird Orthotomus cuculatus
Mt. Kinabalu; 1 Liwagu River Trail (23/4), 3 (25/3).
Mountain Leaf-Warbler Phylloscopus trivirgatus
Mt. Kinabalu; A few daily, and more common at higher elevations in the park (22-25/4). Generally this species much greyer than the illustration in the guide. However, one very brightly coloured bird seen.
Yellow-breasted Warbler Phylloscopus montis
Mt. Kinabalu; Fairly common along roadsides and lower forest. Up to 10 daily (22-25/4).
Striated Grassbird Megalurus palustris
Poring; 1-2 (25,27/4) seen along the access road. Nice views of the bird singing from telephone wires. Kota Belud; 2+ (28/4).
Sunda Laughingthrush Garrulax palliatus
Mt. Kinabalu; Common, with up to 20 birds seen daily (22-25/4). Noisy.
Black Laughingthrush Melanocichla lugubris
Mt. Kinabalu; 3 Liwagu River trail (23/4).
Chestnut-capped Laughingthrush Pterorhinus mitratus
Mt. Kinabalu; Common and conspicuous (22-25/4).
Bornean Swamp Babbler Pellorneum macropterum
Poring; 3 (26/4) along waterfall trail. Palau Gaya; 1 (28/4).
Leaflitter Babbler Pellorneum poliogene
Poring; A family party easily seen at the start of the trail to the canopy walkway (23-25/4).
Bornean Black-capped Babbler Pellorneum capistratoides
Poring; one noted walking on the forest floor (27/4) near the start of the main trails.
Mountain Wren-Babbler Gypsophila crassa
Species endemic to Borneo. Mt. Kinabalu; A few seen daily in dense understorey along most forest trails (22-25/4).
Grey-throated Babbler Stachyris nigriceps
Mt. Kinabalu; Common in roadside scrub and forest understorey (22-25/4). Up to 20 daily.
Chestnut-rumped Babbler Stachyris maculata
Poring; about 4 in dense scrub of large clearing (27/4). Annoyingly difficult to see well.
White-browed Shrike-Babbler Pteruthius flaviscapis
Mt. Kinabalu; 2-3 birds giving neck-breaking views from the ridge above the park (25/4).
Chestnut-crested Yuhina Staphida everetti
Species endemic to Borneo. Mt. Kinabalu; Very common in small noisy flocks (22-25/4). Tame and very conspicuous. Probably the commonest bird on Mt. Kinabalu. Poring; One group of 20 from the canopy walkway (26/4).
Eurasian Tree-Sparrow Passer montanus
Common in towns, villages and open country.
Chestnut Munia Lonchura malacca
Route to Kota Belud; several in the flooded fields beside the road (23/4). Kota Belud; very common (28/4).
Dusky Munia Lonchura fuscans
Species endemic to Borneo. Route to Kota Belud; several in the flooded fields beside the road (23/4). Poring; several feeding on the staff “football pitch” (26/4).
Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata
Kota Belud; a few mixed in with the other munias (28/4).
Blue-headed Wagtail Motacilla flava
Kota Belud; 20+ feeding in flooded areas (28/4).
Yellow-rumped Flowerpecker Prionochilus xanthopygius
Species endemic to Borneo. Poring; Several seen daily from the canopy walkway and around the restaurant and gardens.
Yellow-vented Flowerpecker Dicaeum chrysorrheum
Poring; 1 seen from the canopy walkway (26/4).
Orange-bellied Flowerpecker Dicaeum trigonostigma
Poring; a few feeding in the gardens around the hot springs (26,27/4).
Black-sided Flowerpecker Dicaeum monticolum
Species endemic to Borneo. Mt. Kinabalu; A few birds seen daily (22-25/4). One very tame individual came to feed on berry bush just outside our cabin, and could be observed at 2m. distance.
Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker Dicaeum cruentatum
Palau Gaya; 1 (28/4).
Plain Sunbird Anthreptes simplex
Poring; a few from the canopy walkway (26, 27/4). Easily overlooked as just another small green bird.
Plain-throated Sunbird Anthreptes malacensis
Poring; One next to the cabin (25/4).
Puple-naped Spiderhunter Kurochkinegramma hypogrammicum
Poring; several in forest understorey en route to the main waterfall (26/4).
Purple-throated Sunbird Nectarinia sperata
Palau Gaya; 3+ (28/4).
Ornate Sunbird Nectarinia ornatus
Mt. Kinabalu; One bird near the chalets (22/4). Poring; 1 (27/4) in open country en route to Kinabalu. Kota Belud; 2 (28/4).
Temminck's Sunbird Aethopyga temminckii
Mt. Kinabalu; A few birds seen in flowering plants around chalets and restaurant (22-25/4).
Little Spiderhunter Arachnothera longirostra
Poring; 1 (26/4), 2 (27/4).
Long-billed Spiderhunter Arachnothera robusta
Poring; 1 (26/4), 2 (27/4).
Spectacled Spiderhunter Arachnothera flavigaster
Poring; 1 (26/4) feeding in the “tulip” tree in the car park.
Yellow-eared Spiderhunter Arachnothera chrysogenys
Poring; 4 (26/4) feeding in the “tulip” tree in the car park.
Grey-breasted Spiderhunter Arachnothera affinis
Poring; one in large clearing (27/4).