Section 1 - Introduction, logistics, itinerary and general information.
Section 2 - Birding sites (part 1).
Section 3 - Birding sites (part 2).
Section 4 - Birding sites (part 3).
Section 5 - Annotated checklist with identification notes (non-passerines).
Section 6 - Annotated checklist with identification notes (passerines).
Gamba 6. Sette Cama and Matsiegui Lagoon
For those wishing to search for Red-tailed Palm-Thrush, a trip to Sette Cama will be necessary. Sette Cama, 35 kilometres north along the coast from Gamba, is reached via a heavy sand road which starts near the N'Dogo wharf. The track is worse in the dry season, as after a little rain the sand becomes compacted and the driving easier. Avoid the track during peak rains, as some of the pools become incredibly deep. Sette Cama is a favourite weekend destination for Europeans working in Gamba, and as such it is a good idea to travel there at the weekend, when several other cars will be available to pull you out if stuck. From the airport, follow the map to the N'Dogo wharf, and take the wide sand track marked at 10.5 kilometres. The track forks all over the place, but all tracks lead to Sette Cama. Two hours and 35 kilometres later you will approach the village from the south. Just before the village there is a football pitch on the right. Park somewhere here and walk left, toward the beach. The Red-tailed Palm-Thrush is fairly regular here, as is Snowy-crowed Robin-Chat. Although associated with palms, the birds are more often in the scrub alongside, and frequently feed on the ground, but can be rather shy. Continue driving north, keeping the village on the right, will lead to the old 'mission house', which is a favourite bat roost. The track continues north and then turns sharply left to the beach. Loango Weaver occur in the beach scrub here, and along the beach to the north.
Matsiegui Lagoon, also known as Hippo Lake, is passed about eight kilometres after you turn off the tarmacked road at N'Dogo wharf. Even though the track passes within 100 metres of the lake, it cannot be seen, as it is completely surrounded by forest. Most of the track northward is across plains. About 8 kilometres after turning off the tarmac you pass through a wide forest cutting (only the second one you will have passed). The row of red-and-white markers running up the middle, marks the buried oil pipeline. If you are on the left hand (west) side of these markers you should see a track off left down to the lake. If you exit the forest cutting you have gone too far. With binoculars, hippos are usually visible on the far side of the lake, and Mouse-brown Sunbird is regular. It is also worth walking the forest cutting, which gives good views into tall forest. Black-throated Malimbe, and Black-headed Bee-eater are regular. The species list for Sette Cama will be almost as that for Nyanga and Colas.
Gamba 7. Maambi River
This short tributary of the Nyanga River can easily be worked in a day. This is the best place for Mouse-brown Sunbird, a mangrove specialist, and it is one of the few accessible areas where it is fairly common. Violet-tailed Sunbird also occur in good numbers. Habitat along the river is mainly palm swamp and mangroves with smaller stands of primary forest. Other species which occur include White-crested Tiger-Bittern and Leaf-love. The endangered Manatee is also regularly seen. A good stakeout for Hippopotamus is found about half way up the 25 kilometres of navigable river. From the airport, take the main road south, 42 kilometres to the village of Mayonami. Pirogues with boatman can easily be hired here.
Gamba 8. Vera. All that remains of the former hippy commune at Vera, are a cleared area beside the lake, and a few concrete slabs. The view from the hill a kilometre or so before the lake is the best in the Gamba area.
Follow the Pont Brulé map as far as 19.7 kilometres and turn off left, following this track across grassy plains to the lake edge at about 30 kilometres. These plains are very good for Black-rumped Button-Quail, which often flush in front of the car. If you have arrived slightly early, or late, in the season for African River-Martin, this is probably the best place to try. They appear to migrate along river courses, so tend to congregate near lakes on arrival and departure. The clearing is also good for mammals, and you will find plenty of Buffalo and Hippo as well as Crocodile tracks. A variety of birds can be found, including White-crowned Robin-Chat (dense lake-side vegetation), Black-necked Weaver, White-throated Blue-Swallow (occasional), Black-headed Bee-eater (forest at lake edge), and Gabon Nightjar (common in the long grass). In the evening, this is a fairly reliable spot for Spot-breasted Ibis, which can be heard as they fly to roost shortly after dark. To best spot to try for them is the small hill on the left, just before you enter the forest leading to the clearing at the lake edge.
Species of note from Vera:
Spot-breasted Ibis o |
African River-Martin c |
Complete list of the species known from Gamba:
Little Grebe o |
White-thighed Hornbill o |
Port Gentil
Although Port Gentil will not rate among the top Gabon birding sites, you could easily become stuck there overnight if passing through. For those not able to travel to Gamba there are a couple of good stake-outs for Loango Weaver, and the point at Cap Lopez holds good numbers of terns, including Damara Tern between April and October. A total of 341 species has been reported for Mandji Island, on which Port Gentil sits, of which some 137 can be regarded as common or fairly common, but the species diversity is reduced, compared with inland forests of Gabon.
Several hotels can be found in town as well as rental cars, but for a short visit it would be better to hire a taxi. The two sites listed below are easily worked, and both hold Loango Weaver. For a thorough account and annotated checklist of the birds of Mandji Island refer to Alexander-Marrack (1990).
Port Gentil 1. Cap Lopez. The position of Cap Lopez, jutting out into the Atlantic Ocean, is favourable for the observation of migrants that follow the coast. In addition to the cape itself, the area around the Pig Farm (ask for La Ferme), some 12 km south of the cape, often attracts rarities, including Asian Golden Plover, Caspian Plover, and Wattled Starling. All Gabon records of American vagrants are from this area. The road to Cap Lopez branches off the airport access road, just before entering the airport, and consists of about 15 kilometres of paved, though pot-holed tarmac leading to the Elf oil terminal at Cap Lopez. Terns can be seen on the beach as you approach the terminal. Just before the terminal gate, a track leads left to a small Ghanaian fishing village. Follow the track on foot, keeping the village to your left and the large pond to your right. After about 800 metres you arrive at the beach. Walk right, north, along the shore, which is usually packed with terns. A few hundred metres along the beach will bring you to a large oil loading pipeline, which often has resting terns. Just before the pipe, the thick scrub on the right - which does not look very exciting - holds a few pairs of nesting Loango Weaver. Some cutting and disturbance has taken place over the last couple of years, but the weavers remain. The beach here is the best sea-watching point in Gabon, and Sooty Shearwater pass in good numbers during late September to October. Wilson's Storm-Petrel, and Black Noddy have been seen.
Port Gentil 2. Tchengué. This area includes a small series of ponds, 10 kilometres from, and at the end of, the only paved road running south of Port Gentil. Species of note include Loango Weaver, Yellow-throated Greenbul, Snowy-crowned Robin-Chat, and Allen's Gallinule. Although recently Elf has polluted the ponds from the adjacent oil terminal, the scrub is still productive.
Makokou
During the 1970s, the Institut de Recherches en Ecologie Tropicale (IRET) scientific research station at M'Passa flourished. This has resulted in the Makokou area being ornithologically well known for some time. Refer to Brosset and Erard (1986) for comprehensive coverage of the birds of the area. Several possibilities are available for travelling to Makokou. From Libreville, the easiest is by air - Air Gabon flies two or three times weekly. By bush-taxi it is fifteen hours, and not recommended. An alternative, from either Libreville or Franceville, is to take the train as far as Booué, and from there a bush-taxi the remaining 200 kilometres. Lastly you could attempt to hitch from Franceville.
The Ivindo Palace, hardly palatial, is the only hotel in town, though the restaurant prices are a bit steep. Alternative accommodation is available at the Catholic Mission which costs about the same, and is clean and basic. No hire cars are available, but local drivers with 4x4 can be hired by the day. Birding opportunities abound in the whole north-eastern corner of Gabon, with time the only limiting factor. Three sites are essential - M'Passa Reserve, Bokaboka, and a trip on the Sin River. Additional, excellent sites are also included.
Makokou 1. M'Passa Research Station. The old IRET station at M'Passa, 12 km southwest of Makokou, is now closed. Although a skeleton staff maintain the grounds, one wonders why. The location of the chalets, library, and laboratory in a clearing above the river is exquisite. Although many of the forest trails are now overgrown, some are still in a good state, or you can just crash about in the forest. An incredible 362 species have been observed within a two kilometre radius of the station. As visitors are few, and hunting not allowed, many of the birds and other animals are relatively tame. Black Guineafowl and Grey-throated Rail occasionally cross the main ride.
In theory, it is necessary to obtain a permit from the Departement des Eaux et Forêts in Libreville to visit the reserve, and they will certainly not allow an overnight stay. It's pointless trying to write in advance as they would never reply. Your only hope is to visit their office in Libreville when you arrive. However, it is extremely unlikely that anyone of authority will be around and you will just end up wasting time. It is better to try to arrange something in Makokou. The head caretaker checks the reserve daily and importantly has the key to the gate, which blocks the road, 5 kilometres before the headquarters. If you contact him, and be friendly, he will possibly let you into the reserve without a permit. To get to the reserve gate, hire a taxi and try to arrange to be collected after, or have a long walk out. Although the habitat between the gate and the reserve is cut-over secondary growth and forest edge, it holds good birds including Fiery-breasted Bushshrike and Grey-green Bushshrike. Spot-breasted Ibis can be heard from the river behind the chalets at dusk and dawn.
Makokou 2. Bokaboka.
This village, 140 km north-east of Makokou along the Mékambo road, has become known for its relatively accessible caves holding Grey-necked Rockfowl. Only a few pairs occur in two cave complexes, and the birds are very sensitive to disturbance. Fortunately, the number of visiting birders is minimal. Although local people do not directly persecute them, as they are considered "guardians of the mountain", our guide was very prepared to enter the cave to disturb them on our behalf. In the longer term, with more visitors this could result in the abandonment of the caves. From the village, the caves are a hard slog of an hour and a half, uphill through the forest. The initial part of the trail passes through swamp forest, and rubber boots are recommended. The forest around Bokaboka has been poorly studied, and judging by the song and calls heard on the way up, it would be well worth spending a night or two in the village. Green-breasted Pitta has been heard here. Guides in the village are Jean Charles Gadibardi, N'Gond à Lombet Juniot, and Hilaire. Bush-taxis, although not numerous, do travel the Makokou-Mékambo road. However, if you want to do the trip in a day you will need to hire a 4x4 in Makokou. The journey takes three hours each way. En-route, about 100 or 120 km from Makokou, between Ingol or Jondo and Bokaboka, the road climbs and descends an obviously rocky highland area in the rainforest. Forest Swallow has been recorded here, though evidently they are scarce and seasonal.
Makokou 3. Sin River
At least four days, and preferably a week, are needed to work the swamp forests of extreme northeast of Gabon. The Sin River - Nysea in other local dialects - is one of the main tributaries of the Ivindo River. The area is very wild, remote, and unspoilt. Once on the Sin there are no villages. Do not plan this trip near the end of your stay, as you could easily become stuck up-river and have to drift back. Habitat lining the river is primary forest and varies from inundated to dry. The principle reason to do this trip is to find the 'big four' - Eastern Wattled Cuckooshrike, Grey Ground-Thrush, Black-eared Ground-Thrush and Grey-headed Broadbill - which cannot be found nearer Makokou. Other species found more easily here than elsewhere include Spot-breasted Ibis, Vermiculated Fishing Owl, Bare-cheeked Trogon, Red-sided Broadbill, Dusky Tit, Black-capped Apalis, Red-crowned Malimbe and Rachel's Malimbe. In addition to the bird life, the insect life is very impressive for its variety and weirdness. Although mosquitos and tsetse flies were noticeably absent during our visit, they could be seasonal, so go well prepared. Camping areas can be found where local hunters have previously cleared small areas and bivouacked along the river banks.
Much preparation in Makokou is needed, for which you should allow a full day in the itinerary. Take everything - food, drinking water, camping gas, two-stroke fuel, cooking and camping equipment. The size of your party will dictate the size of the pirogue required, but I would not recommend anything greater than eight metres, due to maneuverability problems in the fast current of the Sin. An eight metre pirogue will take three people, their gear, the boatman and his assistant. It is preferable to find a boatman who has been on the Sin before, as the current is strong, and obstructions numerous. We hired John Essomba, who lives in the row of houses opposite the airport entrance, and who was recommended. He knows the Sin, has his own outboard motor (which was in good condition when we were there), but we found his general attitude to work rather poor. Pirogues and fuel cans can be hired from Mr. Ostrich, a local, known by everyone. He can also find you a boatman. Although it is not necessary to travel far up the Sin River to find the principal species of interest, the Grey-headed Broadbill is only found farther up. However, it is highly likely that the river will be blocked by fallen trees after about 10 kilometres. We were fortunate that a plant-collecting expedition had passed the river the previous year. For those intending to continue further, a chain-saw will be essential. Close by, at M'Vadi (see main north-east Gabon map), is one of only two Gabon sites for Marsh Widowbird. From the confluence of the Sin tributary, continue up the Ivindo River for about 10 kilometres to an obvious grassy marsh. The birds are supposedly common there.
Makokou 4. Around Makokou Town
Birding around town can be productive, and there are a few sites which can be checked while waiting for planes etc. The scrub around the Catholic Mission has been rather degraded in recent years, but has produced some nice birds including Preuss' Weaver, Purple-throated Cuckooshrike, Dusky-blue Flycatcher, Eastern Yellow-billed Barbet and Lühder's Bushshrike.
Just behind the town, close to the hotel, is the old airfield, where scrub and plantations hold Yellow-necked Greenbul and, with luck, Streaky-breasted Flufftail. Ask for directions, or take a taxi. At the new airport (it looks anything but new), walk away from town, checking the scrub bordering the runway. This is the only place in Makokou for Masked Apalis. For Gosling's Apalis, take a taxi to the bridge over the river Liboumba, just south of the airport. Yellow-necked Greenbul and Violet-tailed Sunbird are also possible here. Grey-green Bushshrike can be very elusive, but does, somewhat surprisingly, occur in the trees around the Ivindo Palace Hotel.
Makokou 5. Old Bélinga Road.
The 'old' road to Bélinga branches off the Makokou-Mékambo road about 40 kilometres from Makokou. Note that no 'new' road exists - the road was constructed during a period of timber and iron-ore extraction, but is no longer driveable by vehicle as a bridge, 12 km from the turn-off, has collapsed. This has resulted in an ideal birding road winding through the forest. Species likely to be encountered are Black-capped Apalis, Rufous-sided Broadbill, Dusky Long-tailed Cuckoo, and possibly Laura's Warbler which is only known in Gabon along this road. Bélinga also has Grey-necked Rockfowl - many more than Bokaboka. For those with time, a visit to this remote village will no doubt be rewarding. To travel there, take a pirogue from Makokou, as far as Mayebut, and then walk the 15 kilometres to Bélinga. Local people know the caves, and it is possible to camp in the old buildings of the mining camp, which have long since been abandoned.
Makokou 6. Okondja and Olindi - The Franceville-Makokou Road. For those with extra days in their itinerary, travelling the road between Franceville and Makokou could be very rewarding. The road is readily navigable in the dry season, but is probably impassable for most of the wet season. The best way to work it would be to use the hire car from Franceville and camp out. However, unless you have unlimited financial resources this is not going to be possible. The best primary forest lies along the largely unpopulated stretch between Ndjounou and Olindi.
At Okondja it is possible to stay in the Catholic Mission, where scrub behind the church has Blue-shouldered Robin-Chat, Crested Malimbe and Yellow-necked Greenbul. Exploration of forest along any of the roads out of town, particularly the east toward Congo, is recommended. Eastern Wattled Cuckooshrike has been recorded in the area. Travelling north from Okondja is difficult as the road is little travelled, so be prepared to hitch and camp out. The one night spent in the village at Olindi, about 100 kilometres from Makokou, found the forest to be excellent with Rachel's Malimbe, Rufous-sided Broadbill, Bare-cheeked Trogon, Dusky Tit, and Olive Long-tailed Cuckoo.
Species observed Makokou region (2 visits): S- Sin River only, O - Olindi only, M - M'Passa only
African Darter S |
Gabon Helmetshrike 7 (S) |
Section 1 - Introduction, logistics, itinerary and general information.
Section 2 - Birding sites (part 1).
Section 3 - Birding sites (part 2).
Section 4 - Birding sites (part 3).
Section 5 - Annotated checklist with identification notes (non-passerines).
Section 6 - Annotated checklist with identification notes (passerines).