Section 1 - Introduction, logistics, itinerary and general information.
Section 2 - Birding sites (part 1).
Section 3 - Birding sites (part 2).
Section 4 - Birding sites (part 3).
Section 5 - Annotated checklist with identification notes (non-passerines).
Section 6 - Annotated checklist with identification notes (passerines).
Lekoni
Lekoni, sometimes written Leconi, ranks as a personal favourite birding locality worldwide. Its extensive, largely unspoilt, expanses of savanna and open Brachystegia and Miombo woodland, are combined with the possibility of finding rare or new birds for Gabon. The area was only discovered ornithologically in 1989 when Peter Alexander-Marrack and myself made an exploratory visit, and is sure to hold further interesting species. The area sits on the edge of the Batéké Plateau, and has several species confined to this habitat in Angola and Congo. Of particular interest are Congo Moor-Chat, Finsch's Francolin, Black-chinned Weaver, Angola Batis and Black-headed Batis.
Lekoni, 100 kilometres east of Franceville, is reached via a paved and fairly well-maintained road running between the two. Unlike the rest of Gabon, which is crossed with dirt roads, this road is paved as it passes through the village of Bongoville, the birth place of President Omar Bongo. Habitat transformation along the road is immense, from rain forest to dry savanna. This stretch of road must surely be the place where most bird species can be seen during a single day in Gabon. A three to four day visit, concentrating on Lekoni alone, should produce 130-150 species.
From Libreville, Franceville is reached by air or rail. Air Gabon flies daily to Mvengué airport (27 kilometres west of Franceville), or the train goes five times weekly and takes 10-12 hours to do the journey.
Unless you have plenty of time, the main problem involved with birding at Lekoni is the cost of hiring the necessary 4x4 vehicle. Avis is the only vehicle-hire company operating in Franceville, and charges an extortionate rental price.
Accommodation in Franceville is available at the Intercontinental Hotel, or several smaller local hotels. In Lekoni it is restricted to the government guesthouse - officially known as the Complexe Touristique et Commercial de Lekoni - on the right just as you arrive in the village. This place has had a somewhat checkered history, and cannot be relied upon to be open. Built in 1987, it first opened in 1989, but was soon closed again. In 1992 management was taken over by a French couple, who transformed it, and currently this is the nicest place in Gabon. The freezer is well stocked with local game, and was the place I first saw Finsch's Francolin! If not open it will be necessary to camp, which is very easy, though bring food and water from Franceville. In the village, it is possible to buy the usual tinned sardines and rice, and bread might be available. The Andza - local mineral water -factory is situated just outside the village. No fuel is available, although by asking around the village you may find some diesel for sale privately.
Be warned, it is essential to wear long trousers in any grassy area around Lekoni. All grassy plains are infested with a minute blood-sucking fly, which at first does not appear to be a particular nuisance. They appear to be restricted to the grass, and attack legs and ankles. Short sleeves are OK providing an insect repellent is used.
Two groups of birds at Lekoni - Cisticolas and Batis flycatchers - are an identification nightmare. For the later, although there are only three species, the literature is so confused that almost any identification seems possible.
As you work your way east from Franceville you will be highly tempted to stop and bird along the road. Unless you are planning on more than three days at Lekoni, avoid the temptation, as the forest areas lining the road mainly contain common forest birds that will be seen later in the trip. Start looking for interesting species from where the road ascends onto the Batéké plateaux. From here to Lekoni interesting species that can be found include Congo Moor-Chat, Black Scimitar-bill and Black-chinned Weaver. Although all the birds can be found during several days hard slog from Lekoni village, 4x4 transport is highly desirable. The best place to start is the Edjangoulou track (see map). Continue on the main road through Lekoni village, pass the military installation, and continue to the end of the stone road. After a further four kilometres you will see a large forest patch on the right. Park and work the forest edge and the scattered bushes on the southern side. Black-collared Bulbul is fairly common here, and this is the best place for Angola Batis and Black-chinned Weaver. Black Scimitar-bill and Finsch's Francolin have both been seen in the area, but the later is as rare here as everywhere, due to hunting pressure. Olive Long-tailed Cuckoo is common in the forest, and Petit's Cuckooshrike and African Broadbill occur.
The Lekoni canyons and lake are the major tourist attraction, and are certainly worth a visit. The original, old track, to the canyons is the better for birds. A circuit, returning along the new track may well be necessary, as a short, very steep section of the old track cannot be ascended if wet, even with 4x4. Start birding at the 4.5 kilometre point, the base of the steep section - one of only two places for Black-headed Batis. Between 4.5 kilometres and 5.9 kilometres the track runs along the edge of a shallow valley with scattered trees on the left, northeast, and gallery forest on the right. The valley sides are the best site for Finsch's Francolin, which calls in the evening at certain times of the year, and can be flushed with difficulty. This area is also good for nightjars with Fiery-necked Nightjar, Long-tailed Nightjar, Swamp Nightjar and Gabon Nightjar all occurring in good numbers. Note that the long grass will be heavily dewed in the morning when rubber boots are highly recommended.
The gallery forest around 5.9 kilometres is the best place for Petit's Cuckooshrike. Black-headed Batis, Black-backed Barbet and White-winged Black-Tit occur in small numbers in low bushes from there to about 6.8 kilometres. Around 7.6 kilometres Black-chinned Weaver may be found, but probably only one pair. A couple of kilometres from the canyons you enter open grassy plains, where Congo Moor-Chat is common, and where, with luck, Northern White-bellied Bustard can be heard. Petit's Saw-wing will usually be found around the lip of the canyons, and Horus Swift are often inside. Reports of 'dark' swifts accompanying these, could be Loanda Swift Apus toulsoni.
Having had a good stare into the canyons try the track from 11.6 to 15.6 kilometres which approaches the forest at the lake edge. Black-headed Bee-eater is possible in the forest edge here, though it is not really possible to get a good look at the lake. The best area to work is the open Brachystegia toward the bottom. This holds Spotted Eagle-Owl, Black Scimitar-bill, Salvadori's Eremomela, Greencap Eremomela, and Southern Yellow-rumped Seedeater. The open grassy plains between 11.6 and 10.9 kilometres (new track) are good for Northern White-bellied Bustard, and is currently the only known site for Cloud-scraping Cisticola.
A further day should be spent working the southern side of the lake. Follow the track to Sayé, and once on the open plains keep looking for the major track running off left. This leads to the lake-shore at 15 kilometres. Marsh Widowbird might be found in the long grass immediately bordering the lake, and the dry scrub holds Black-headed Batis, Chinspot Batis, and Souza's Shrike. Note that Forest Swallow has been listed as occurring in the Lekoni area. Identification of this species is difficult due to the poor literature, which has resulted in misidentification of Petit's Saw-wing, which is common here. Forest Swallow is a bird of rocky areas within primary forest, the nests of which have been found within the caves of Grey-necked Rockfowl.
Species observed from Lekoni (3 visits):
Little Grebe 3 |
African Thrush 8 |
Oyem
As Oyem is one of the more populated rural areas of Gabon, there is a fair amount of secondary growth and abandoned plantations. Large amounts of less accessible primary forest remain, best found to the north along the road to Bitam. If you have time, the area is well worth a day or two, as several species are more easily found here than elsewhere. The lake by the hotel holds White-backed Night-Heron, and is a regular site for the rare Bates's Swift (a species rarely encountered anywhere) and Black-crowned Waxbill.
Air Gabon flies from Libreville direct to Oyem several times weekly, most regularly on Saturday and Monday. The alternative would be by road using bush taxis, which takes a full day of travel. The only tourist class hotel is the Novotel Relais de M'Vett in Oyem town, which has about 60 rooms, but occupancy is low. It's clean and comfortable. The restaurant is fairly basic, so it's a good idea to bring some snacks to cover lunches in the field. The location is good for birds with a garden sloping down to a small lake. Other possible accommodation would be to stay at the Mission in town. No car rental is available, but twice I managed to hire privately by asking at the hotel. The road to Bitam is laterite, and passable to traffic throughout the year. The Abaméba road is only passable to 4x4 in the wet season. Hiring a bush-taxi by the day would also be a good option. Birding can be good anywhere, so just drive out and explore. The better areas I discovered were the forests along the Bitam road north of the police checkpoint 12 km from Oyem, and the secondary forest along the tracks to Abaméba and M'Bolonzok.
Species observed from Oyem (2 visits):
Little Egret 1 |
Ashy Flycatcher 1 |
Lambaréné
Lambaréné is famous as the site of the Albert Schweitzer Hospital. Schweitzer worked at the hospital until his death at the age of ninety, and his grave can be found in the garden of the small museum next to the hospital. Lambaréné is the best place to observe Grey Pratincole and White-headed Lapwing, which breed on the exposed sand banks during the dry season.
Probably the best way to work the area is to take a motorised pirogue three hours down-river and stay overnight at the remote island resort at Lac Evaro - a set-up with chalets having electricity and running water. Paddle boats enable one to explore the lake edge. Possibilities include White-backed Night-Heron and White-crested Tiger-Bittern. Mosquitos were the worst here that I have ever encountered.
Species observed at Lambaréné (1 visit):
African Darter c |
Cassin's Spinetail c |
La Lopé-Okanda Reserve
This is the most visited and well known game reserve in Gabon, although I never personally visited. Situated in the middle of the country between Ndjolé and Lastoursville, the habitat is a savanna-forest mosaic. The headquarters are surrounded by savanna grassland, with the main body of forest about 10 kilometres to the south. The hills to the west can be climbed, and there are marshes north of the main road, across the railway, flanking the Ogooué river. There are several confirmed sightings of Dja River Scrub-Warbler from the reserve, and the Grey-necked Rockfowl certainly occurs. To visit the reserve, authorisation must be obtained from the Departement des Eaux et Forêts in Libreville. Access is by train (Lopé station) or bush-taxi (seven hours from Libreville), but a car is really required for travelling around once there. Roads within the reserve are very rough in places, and there is no fuel at Lopé. The nearest fuel station is at Booué (access by train, take a jerry can) or Ndjolé (3 hour drive). Some fuel might be obtained by arrangement with foresters at Ayem (25 kilometres). Diesel is more easily obtained from forestry companies. Accommodation, the Case de Passage at the park headquarters, is visible on the south side of the main road, 15 minutes walk from the train station. Communal showers/toilets and a self-catering kitchen (take your own camping gas) are provided. Restaurants come and go in Gabon, but in 1989 a Cameroonian restaurant was opened just 20 minutes walk from headquarters. Alternatively the "Le Mont Brazza" bar is 10 minutes walk. For very basic supplies, a Gaboprix (beer, wine, water, canned food) and a Senegalese general store (bread, eggs, soft drinks), are both 10 minutes walk from headquarters.
Staff will offer services as guides (a tip is expected), as park rules prohibit walking in the reserve, and driving is only allowed during daylight hours. However, park staff do not normally patrol away from headquarters, and pleasant walks can be enjoyed in the savanna and forest, provided that care is taken to avoid disturbance of buffaloes, elephants, etc. All wildlife is protected within the reserve boundaries. Be prepared for troublesome insects. The Gorilla Research Centre is situated 12 kilometres south of the headquarters. Visitors with a genuine interest in primates are welcome, but by invitation only. The centre has research students of various nationalities working there. Prior arrangement is required for a visit to the Gorilla research area, which is in degraded, logged forest. Long-sleeved shirts and long trousers are essential as protection against Scleria razor grass - really a sedge - which has invaded the old logging tracks.
Rabi and Koumounabwali
As Rabi is a producing oil-field, only Shell employees are permitted within its boundaries. However, it is included here as an indication of species likely to be found in the forests of central Gabon. The extent of the off-limits oil-field is not large, and all the surrounding areas are accessible along public roads. This is an area for those with plenty of time. Discovery of oil at Rabi around 1985, with the subsequent building of roads, has unfortunately permitted access to a large area of continuous rainforest which had previously been completely uninhabited and unexplored. It was with great expectation that I was finally able to spend two long weekends, during June and December 1992, surveying the forests. As no ornithological field work had previously been undertaken, recording concentrated on covering as many habitats as possible in the limited time available. These included swamp forest, primary forest (interior and edge), forested lake edge, open areas cleared of forest, and a small amount of savanna. June, being the dry season, was a particularly difficult time in which to survey birds. The majority of species breeds during the rains, when territorial song and increased feeding activity makes finding them easier. Among the better birds, Olive Ibis, Lyre-tailed Honeyguide and Bare-cheeked Trogon were found to be fairly common.
For those wishing to work the area, the best access is the road running from Yombi (20 kilometres south of Fougamou) through Mandji and beyond. The many, unmarked logging roads can be explored. One interesting spot, which could be worth longer than the half day I spent (in August), is the isolated mountain of Koumounabwali (see Gabon map), which rising to 833 metres is one of the higher points in Gabon. Although no particularly interesting birds were seen, several interesting plant species were discovered. A guide can be found in the village of Bembodié, the closest to the mountain.. The position of the village is wrongly marked on the map of Gabon, being closer to the main road than indicated. Accommodation is only available at the Catholic Mission in Fougamou.
Species observed from Rabi (2 visits) and those of note at Koumounabwali (K).
Cattle Egret 10 |
Olivaceus Flycatcher 2 |
Moukalaba Reserve de Faune
This reserve, which I rate highly, receives absolutely no visitors, due in main to the lack of any roads within the reserve, and its distance from Libreville. The forest-savanna mosaic habitat is rich in bird-life. Permission to visit is granted, as with other reserves in Gabon, from the Departement des Eaux et Forêts in Libreville. The park headquarters are at Mourindi, two hours by bush-taxi, north-west of Tchibanga. Three days are recommended. The staff at the reserve are certainly glad to see visitors, so it might be possible to just turn-up and ask for permission to stay. Chalets, with mattresses and electricity from 18h00 to 22h00 are available, but bring all your own food, water and cooking gas. Air Gabon flies to Tchibanga twice a week.
Taking a bush-taxi to Mourindi is easy, as the main road passing the airport is the Mourindi road. The main, driveable, track running northwest toward Mougouma is the best starting area, as it passes through several habitats. This public track marks the eastern boundary of the reserve, so can be birded even if you are not officially staying at the reserve. Brown Twinspot is fairly common, feeding along the roadside in the early morning. Other specialities are Black-collared Bulbul (rare), Red-breasted Wryneck, Moustached Grass-Warbler, Black-faced Canary (rare), Black-headed Batis, Angola Batis (rare), Black-backed Barbet, Fan-tailed Grassbird, and Marsh Tchagra. To follow the footpath across the reserve it is necessary to use a guide from the headquarters, as there are areas of high elephant grass, in which to become completely lost. The footpath crosses savanna, with several strips of gallery forest, in which African Leaf-love appears to be quite common. Fiery-breasted Bushshrike is common in the swamp forest bordering the river. Another day can be spent in the forest bordering the road to Moabi. From Mourindi, take a passing bush-taxi, for about 7-10 kilometres and then look for old logging tracks running off. Unfortunately, as there are several villages along the road, much of the habitat is degraded with large areas of plantations. These can be good for secondary growth species.
Species observed at Moukalaba Reserve de Faune (1 visit):
Cattle Egret |
Sooty Flycatcher 1 |
Mouila and Tchibanga
If driving between Mouila and Tchibanga, several spots contain interesting birds. Two long strips of savanna are separated by a 400 metre range of hills, with the resulting habitat change being of particular interest. On the east side of the main N1 road, 16 kilometres south of Mouila, are several small ponds surrounded by bushy grassland, where Black-backed Barbet seems fairly common. The ponds are permanent, and can attract ducks in the dry season. At Mboungou the road turns off toward Moabi and crosses savanna grassland with gallery forest. You can stop anywhere along the road, but try the contact zone just before the ascent to Moabi, where Fan-tailed Grassbird occurs in the rank grass. Exploring roads south from Tchibanga toward the Congo border could be worthwhile. The only hotel in Tchibanga is the run-down Relais de Tchibanga, in the grounds of which Black-backed Barbet, Grey Waxbill, Blue-shouldered Robin-Chat and Variable Sunbird occur. For a complete list of species likely to be encountered in this area, see the Moukalaba section above.
Species of note seen near Mouila and Tchibanga (1 visit):
Long-crested Eagle 1 |
Blue-shouldered Robin-Chat 2+ |
Section 1 - Introduction, logistics, itinerary and general information.
Section 2 - Birding sites (part 1).
Section 3 - Birding sites (part 2).
Section 4 - Birding sites (part 3).
Section 5 - Annotated checklist with identification notes (non-passerines).
Section 6 - Annotated checklist with identification notes (passerines).