Section 1 - Introduction, logistics, itinerary and general information.
Section 2 - Birding sites (Java - Bogor Botanical Garden).
Section 3 - Birding sites (Java - Gunung Gede and Cibodas).
Section 4 - Birding sites (Java - Carita, Indramayu, Pantai Song and Cangkring).
Section 5 - Birding sites (Java - Baluran, Pangandaran and Segara Anakan).
Section 6 - Birding sites (Bali - Gilimanuk and Bali Barat).
Section 7 - Birding sites (Bali - Bedugal, Ubud and Sanur).
Section 8 - Annotated checklist.

Birding Sites

Included below are details of accommodation, access, habitat and a species list for each site. Species that were personally seen or heard are indicated with the number seen/heard, or with a 'c' to denote that the bird was common or fairly so. Species listed without a number have been recorded at that locality, but by observers other than me. For most sites, an indication (in brackets) of the apparent abundance of the species at that site is also given; (c) = common or fairly so, and likely to be found by most observers. (o) = occasional, seen by about half of observers. (r) = rare, only recorded by one or two observers. Bear in mind these ratings are approximate, and largely depend on the number of visitors and availability of published data. Bold typeface identifies species of particular note; either rare, endemic, or which might be considered a 'target' bird at that locality.

Java

Depending on time available, the most important sites to visit on Java are (in approximate order of importance):
Gunung Gede-Pangrango National Park, Baluran National Park, Carita, Pangandaran / Segara Anakan area, Indramayu / Cangkring area and Bogor Botanical Gardens. For those on a short trip, these sites can be taken-in within two weeks (at a push), though to do justice to each, three weeks would be better, and still some species are likely to be missed. Gunung Gede-Pangrango can easily fill a week on its own.

Bogor Botanical Gardens

The Bogor Botanical Gardens (Kabun Raya), established by Raffles in the early 1800s, are situated at 260 m. altitude smack in the centre of Bogor - now a sizable town of more than half a million inhabitants. In former days, the bird species list of the gardens was impressive, but with the ever expanding population and clearance of original habitat from the surrounding areas the number of species regularly recorded in the gardens continues to dwindle (Balen 1987). However, the gardens are well worth a visit and hold several species seemingly more easily found here than elsewhere in Java or Bali; particularly Black-naped Fruit-Dove, Blue-eared Kingfisher and Grey-cheeked Green-Pigeon. A large Black-crowned Night-Heron colony is present on the island within the small lake.

Despite being the principle botanic gardens in Java, like many other sites of natural beauty in Indonesia, its ability to act as a haven for nature is diminished by the dumping of rubbish, bird trapping, excessive noise pollution and other activities not in-keeping with its status. Unfortunately this is a similar story throughout Java, and one which the visiting birder has to live with. The polluted river and canals running through the gardens, littered with plastic bags and rubbish do little to encourage hope for the future. The gardens are open from 08:00 (rather late for birding) till 17:30. One does however notice that a 'side entrance', about 30 metres to the left of the main gate, remains open in order to let staff in and visitors out after official closing. It may be possible to convince the guards to let you in earlier, though I had no luck. Visits during weekends and public holidays should be avoided if at all possible, especially on Sundays when hoards of locals descend on the park, and finding a quiet corner becomes impossible. Entrance price is 2,600 Rp.

To reach Bogor, 60 kilomeres south of Jakarta, take the train (2,500 Rp) or a bus (4,000 Rp, departure every 15 min.) from Jakarta. A taxi, direct from the International airport, should cost 65,000 - 80,000 Rp depending on bargaining skills. (Be aware when negotiating that the road tolls between Jakarta to Bogor amount to 11,000 Rp. The bus terminal in Bogor is located just south of town (see map), from where you can either walk into the centre or take one of the ubiquitous green minibuses which plough the circular, one-way route around the botanical gardens. One full, or two half, days should be sufficient to bird the gardens fully.

The gardens are divided into several habitat zones based on plant types and, to a lesser degree, biogeographically. Hence, visitors find discreet areas of bamboo, water-plants, orchids, rattans, palms etc. Search the bamboo for Horsfield's Babbler and Orange-headed Ground-Thrush (still occurs but almost extirpated due to trapping), while the northern end of the small lake is the best place to find Blue-eared Kingfisher. Trees in fruit attract pigeons and barbets. A reliable area for the Black-naped Fruit-Dove and Grey-cheeked Green-Pigeon appears to be the large trees in the open parkland area just to the west of the small lake. Java Sparrow and munia species supposedly roost near the arboretum. Due to trapping, the status of the Javan Myna and Javan Pied Myna is unclear. They are still recorded periodically from the park, but be aware that these, and many other 'odd individuals', may originate as escapes from one of the many bird sellers within Bogor. In cages outside the gardens I saw mynas, laughingthrushes, orioles and even the endemic Fire-tufted Barbet of Sumatra.

Much cheap and cheerful accommodation is available in Bogor. I stayed at, and can recommend, the Wisma Ramayana which is handily situated close to the entrance of the botanical gardens. Rooms were priced from 24,000 - 35,000/double including breakfast and tea/coffee throughout the day. The staff were helpful and friendly and spoke English. Other birders have stayed recently at the Puri Bali which costs 15,000/double or 5,000 Rp for a bed in the dormitory. The Firman pension has been popular with birders in the past. Numerous stalls and eating establishments are found throughout the town.

Species recorded from Bogor Botanical Gardens: This is a complete list. Older records are based primarily on van Balen (1987). Historical species, not recorded since 1953, are marked 'Hist'.

Little Cormorant r Oriental Darter r Wandering Whistling-Duck Hist Lesser Whistling-Duck Hist Medium Egret Hist Purple Heron Hist Grey Heron r Cattle Egret Hist Javan Pond-Heron Hist Striated Heron Hist Black-crowned Night-Heron c, 50+ Malayan Night-Heron r Yellow Bittern Hist Cinnamon Bittern Hist Black Bittern Hist Osprey Hist Oriental Honey-Buzzard r,1 Brahminy Kite Hist Black-shouldered Kite Hist Crested Serpent-Eagle Hist Crested Goshawk r Chinese Goshawk Hist Japanese Sparrowhawk Hist Black Eagle Hist Changeable Hawk-Eagle Hist Spotted Kestrel Hist Oriental Hobby Hist Peregrine Falcon Hist Barred Buttonquail Hist White-breasted Waterhen o, 1 Band-bellied Crake Hist White-browed Crake Hist Purple Swamphen Hist Common Moorhen Hist Common Sandpiper o, 1 Oriental Pratincole Hist Feral Pigeon c, 10+ Sunda Collared Dove o Spotted Dove c Emerald Dove Hist Zebra Dove o Pink-necked Pigeon Hist Grey-cheeked Green-Pigeon o, 6+ Black-naped Fruit-Dove o, 10+ Yellow-throated Hanging-Parrot o Red-breasted Parakeet o Chestnut-winged Cuckoo r Indian Cuckoo r Oriental Cuckoo r Banded Bay Cuckoo o Plaintive Cuckoo o Sunda Brush Cuckoo r Drongo Cuckoo r Asian Koel Hist Chestnut-breasted Malkoha Hist Lesser Coucal Hist Barn Owl r Sunda Scops Owl o Barred Eagle-Owl Hist Buffy Fish-Owl Hist Spotted Wood-Owl o Brown Boobook Hist Large-tailed Nightjar Hist Grey-rumped Treeswift Hist Cave Swiftlet c, 50+ Edible-nest Swiftlet c, 20+ Asian Palm-Swift c, 1 Pacific Swift Hist House Swift c, 4 Blue-eared Kingfisher c, 1+ Rufous-backed Kingfisher Hist Stork-billed Kingfisher Hist White-throated Kingfisher Hist Collared Kingfisher c, 10+ Javan Kingfisher r

Blue-tailed Bee-eater Hist Chestnut-headed Bee-eater Hist Banded Pitta Hist Western Hooded Pitta Hist Black-eared Barbet r Coppersmith Barbet c, 2h Sunda Woodpecker r Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker o Laced Woodpecker r Common Flameback r Mangrove Whistler r Pied Fantail c, 3+ Black Drongo r Ashy Drongo c Sunda Crow c Large-billed Crow o White-breasted Wood-Swallow Hist Common Iora c, 2 Black-naped Oriole c Pied Triller r Small Minivet Hist Black-winged Flycatcher-Shrike c Blue-winged Leafbird Hist Brown Shrike r Long-tailed Shrike Hist Blue Whistling-Thrush Hist Chestnut-capped Thrush r Orange-headed Ground-Thrush r Siberian Thrush r Asian Glossy Starling o Javan Pied Myna o Black-winged Starling r Javan Myna r Hill Myna Hist Asian Brown Flycatcher r Yellow-rumped Flycatcher r Hill Blue Flycatcher o Oriental Magpie-Robin c, 2 Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Hist White-rumped Shama r Pacific Swallow c Barn Swallow o Eastern Red-rumped Swallow c Sooty-headed Bulbul c, 20+ Yellow-vented Bulbul Hist Grey-cheeked Bulbul r Sangkar White-Eye c, 2 Bar-winged Prinia c, 20+ Yellow-bellied Prinia r Plain Prinia Hist Common Tailorbird r Olive-backed Tailorbird c, 1 Arctic Warbler r Horsfield's Babbler c Javan Black-capped Babbler Hist Crescent-chested Babbler Hist Great Tit c Eurasian Tree-Sparrow o Pin-tailed Parrotfinch Hist Javan Munia c, 6 Scaly-breasted Munia c White-headed Munia r Java Sparrow u Blue-headed Wagtail Hist Grey Wagtail Hist Streaked Weaver r Plain Flowerpecker c, 2 Scarlet-headed Flowerpecker c, 1 Plain-throated Sunbird c, 3 Ruby-cheeked Sunbird Hist Ornate Sumbird c, 2 Javan Sunbird Hist Scarlet Sunbird Hist Little Spiderhunter c, 1 Grey-breasted Spiderhunter r

Section 1 - Introduction, logistics, itinerary and general information.
Section 2 - Birding sites (Java - Bogor Botanical Garden).
Section 3 - Birding sites (Java - Gunung Gede and Cibodas).
Section 4 - Birding sites (Java - Carita, Indramayu, Pantai Song and Cangkring).
Section 5 - Birding sites (Java - Baluran, Pangandaran and Segara Anakan).
Section 6 - Birding sites (Bali - Gilimanuk and Bali Barat).
Section 7 - Birding sites (Bali - Bedugal, Ubud and Sanur).
Section 8 - Annotated checklist.