12 Sep. Arrived by dawn at Teneraro, where calm in the leeward northern shore. Getting onto the island here was tricky, involving hopping onto exposed rock on top of the reef and wading across the inner lagoon for about 50 metres. Fortunately, the relatively calm conditions made this doable - any large swell would make this landing impossible. A couple of Humpback Whale were patrolling right next to the reef, giving great views, and both Tuamotu Sandpiper and Atoll Fruit Dove were found adjacent to the beach. Finding the Polynesian Ground Dove proved more difficult but one or two found eventually after walking through the coconut plantations and low scrub. To date, the Tuamotu Sandpiper easily made the bird of the trip - an extremely confiding bird that looks like a cross between a crake and a wader, with strange habits of tree-climbing and feeding in flower heads.

Good to find that this atoll is still apparently rat-free, which is surprising given that it is covered with coconut palms, planted and harvested by locals living on nearby rat-infested islands. The remainder of the day was spent walking the beach, inner lagoon and plantation edge. Good numbers of Bristle-thighed Curlew, with at least 30 birds. Other species including Black Noddy, Greater Crested Tern, Masked Booby, Red-footed Booby, Pacific Reef Heron and Wandering Tattler. Overnight anchored offshore.

13 Sep. Back to shore with the loose aim of finding a male Polynesian Ground Dove. Unfortunately, a four hour search resulted in not a single sighting of any ground dove. Walking around the understorey here is another test of footwear and balance, with the base coral rock covered in discarded coconuts and spiky fronds from the plentiful Pandanas palms that are great for leg lacerations. Offshore, the Humpback Whale were again giving an extended display. Left the area at 12:30, heading toward Morane. Once out of the lee of Teneraro we were immediately headlong into the southerly swell with our roughest passage to date. A three hour chumming session produced only a few White-faced Storm Petrel and Murphy's Petrel. Due to the strong winds and swell not many takers for dinner. A rough night, reducing the ship's speed.

14 Sep. Arrived at Morane by 07:00, slightly later than planned. Finally out of the heavy seas and into the relative tranquility of the northern shore. The early weather, with strong winds, grey skies and squalls, was more reminiscent of the Norfolk coast than the south Pacific. The transfer to land was decidedly tricky, having to time the swell correctly and jump off onto coral rock, but handled expertly as usual by the crew. A very strong wind and little shelter on the island. Initially we birded the eastern side, which had the greater vegetation, seeing the usual - Tuamotu Sandpiper, Bristle-thighed Curlew, Red-tailed Tropicbird, Masked Booby, Red-footed Booby and Brown Noddy. Not having been cultivated, the vegetation is dense and impenetrable, so looking for Polynesian Ground Dove was not really possible. As this island is rat-free and uninhabited, a walk down the west side gave good numbers of breeding seabirds, particularly Great Frigatebird, Brown Noddy and Red-tailed Tropicbird. Overnight anchored just offshore.

15 Sep. Lifted anchor and headed back toward Mangareva at first light around 06:00. All day in heavy seas and strong winds making it heavy going, with the boat giving a couple of 40° rolls, making life interesting and sending breakfasts everywhere.

Atoll Fruit Dove

Teneraro

Tuamotu Sandpiper

Polynesian Ground Dove

Great Frigatebird

Grey-green Fruit Dove

Tahiti Reed Warbler

Society Kingfisher

18 Sep. Having arranged our local guide Philippe Raust, the president of Manu - the BirdLife partner in French Polynesia, ten of us ventured into the Papenoo Valley inside the Parc Natural de Te Faaiti on the northeastern side of the island. Naturally we were seeking the five extant Tahiti endemics, although knowing two of them were difficult to impossible here. Over the course of several hours we recorded a few Grey-green Fruit Dove, Society Kingfisher and Tahiti Reed Warbler, as well as White-tailed Tropicbird, Pacific Black Duck and the very distinctive nominate race of Pacific Swallow. The return journey through Papeete town late afternoon was awful, due to heavy rush hour traffic and the open vehicle with parallel benches reminiscent of the jeepneys of the Philippines. The constant stop/go in heavy traffic felt worse than the heavy seas of the boat leg. Hard to imagine such traffic on a peaceful tropical island.

19 Sep. We drove to Papehue on the southwestern side of the island, to the main valley where the Tahiti Monarch conservation program is run, meeting several of the program staff in the small car park at the start of the trail. Access to this valley is restricted, and a $50 conservation fee is payable. In an effort to arrest the decline of the monarch, trapping, baiting and killing of rats, cats, mynas and bulbuls is carried out as well as removing introduced trees and replanting native ones. The current population of the monarch is 41 known birds on established territories with a few young birds thought to wander higher into the mountains. During the previous breeding season ten birds fledged. We climbed up through the forest, crossing the stream a couple of times, for just over a kilometre to arrive at an area where two territories were in close proximity, eventually seeing five Tahiti Monarch. A nearby Tahiti Swiftlet colony was very active with probably a 100 nests. Other species in the area were Society Kingfisher and a couple of Grey-green Fruit Dove. The Tahiti Reed Warbler is absent from this area. From here we proceeded a short distance along the coast to Arahurahu ruins, where the grounds were very pleasant, though held few birds of interest save for further Grey-green Fruit Dove.

Striated Heron

Wandering Tattler

20 Sep. An overcast dreary morning following overnight rain. Having now cleaned up on the Tahiti endemics, and with several members of the group returning home, four of us rented a vehicle and drove the island investigating western and southern parts, simply birding and playing the tourist. A scan from black sand beaches along the western side showed large numbers of, unfortunately distant, seabirds feeding beyond the reef, including Red-footed Booby and scores of Brown Noddy. At Grottes de Maraa we had a single Grey-green Fruit Dove.

Common Waxbill

Red-vented Bulbul

Spectacled Tern

22 Sep. Joined a standard day trip to the island of Tetiaroa, located 60 kilometres north of Tahiti. A couple of local operators offer these day trips that include snorkeling and a walk on an adjacent, small, rat-free island holding a large number of breeding seabirds. Eight of us, plus a contingent of six French snorkelers The boat was a large catamaran completing the journey in moderate seas in three hours. On the crossing, nearer Moorea, were Tahiti Petrel and Tropical Shearwater. The landing on Tetiaroa, by small motorised dingy, was another technical challenge, requiring riding the incoming swell across the reef. Getting the timing wrong would end up deposited on the live reef, and in deep water - literally.