Section 1 - Introduction, logistics, itinerary and general information.
Section 2 - Birding sites (part 1).
Section 3 - Birding sites (part 2).
Section 4 - Birding sites (part 3).
Section 5 - Annotated checklist.
El Real
El Real de Santa Maria, founded in 1511 as the sign tells you on arrival, is a one horse town of the hot, humid lowlands of the Darién. Although few birders visit this area, it offers the possibility to find several lowland specialities of eastern Panama which are difficult elsewhere. Some birders visiting Cana may have the chance of birding around the airstrip at El Real if their flights are diverted. However, time-permitting, two to three days are well worth the effort. Although many species of the area are also found at Cana, several interesting species do not occur there. These include Spectacled Parrotlet, Black Antshrike, and Black Oropendola.
Although possible to reach El Real via the Pan American highway from Panama City to Yaviza and then by motorised canoe, the condition of the highway prevents this on anything other than a very long trip. Though teh route might prove interesting ornithologically? More realistically, El Real is served by scheduled Twin Otter flights on Aeroperlas (daily except Tuesday and holidays), which are good value at $67 return. It is important to reconfirm your return flight once in El Real, which you can do so at the agent's office directly behind the hotel in town. Be aware that flight check-in is at the same office, and not as one might imagine, at the airstrip. A wheelbarrow is used to port luggage the one kilometre to/from the airstrip. (Locals tip the porter $1 for the effort).
Unfortunately, the Hotel Nazareno is the only accommodation in town, which at $7/single is poor in value and standard. Formerly, this "hotel" was probably reasonable, but the running water no longer functions, and general maintenance poor. The sheets did appear to be clean, and electric fans are provided. However, visitors should bring a mosquito net, as the electricity shuts off around midnight (whole town), after which the mosquitos and cock-roaches come out to feast. The only eating establishment in town is Doña Lola's, a small kiosk with tables, just around the corner from the hotel. A basic meal of meat and rice costs $2. You can bring your own drinks from the bar next to the hotel, as Lola's has only tea and water. Custom is evidently sparse, so it's a very good idea to go there soon after arrival to warn her that you wish to eat in the evening. The store adjacent to the hotel has basic provisions, which rather surprisingly included boxed fruit juices, but no water, during my visit. It appears that the local drinking water supply is caught rain water, so be sure to bring water sterilising tablets. It's also wise to bring some snacks and other food for lunches. As this area is not within the Darién National Park, the habitat is unprotected. Open areas around town and the airstrip consist primarily of grassland, forest edge and plantations. Riverine forest can be found near the larger rivers, and there are several marshy areas. The best birding opportunities are offered by three major tracks leading out of the town. During the time of my visit, all these trails were horrendously wet and muddy; passable only for a few kilometres.
Locals continuing further were either bare footed or on horse back. Assuming that these trails do dry out in the height of the dry season they should be readily passible for many kilometres. With several days, it is possible ascend Cerro Pirre, but the trail is difficult and not recommended if visiting Cana.
A short description of the best birding possibilities as found:
Airstrip. Early morning and evening are good in the grasslands between town and the airstrip. Southern Lapwing might be found on the airstrip, and White-throated Crake is common. Spectacled Parrotlet is reported to be regular around the west end of the airstrip. The habitat also looks excellent for Striped Owl, but I had no success. Common Potoo can be heard between the airstrip and the first houses.
Trail to River: At the intersection of the tracks to Pinogana, the airstrip and town, a footpath leads, about one kilometre, to an Indian village on the river. The habitat is plantations and forest edge. Black Antshrike can be found in the dense, damp tangles, and I found saw a female within about 200 metres of the river.
Pinogana Track. I followed this wide horse track for two kilometres, after which it became too wet. Greater Ani is very common, and there is a small pond on the left after 800 metres, where I saw Spot-breasted Woodpecker and Pale-bellied Hermit. Black Oropendola was seen in tall trees along the track.
Pirre Track. I followed this wide track for about four kilometres before it became too wet. This appears to be the best track for birding and has the most forest remaining along it. It is easily found as it passes the only antenna behind the school. After 200 metres the track crosses a small river, and a trail goes off left to a house. Black Antshrike (BA on map) was found 200 metres down this trail. Continuing along the Pirre track the habitat is mainly open marshy grassland on the east, forest on the west, until about 2 kilometres from El Real where it nears the river with a large concrete tank on the left. A trail on the right had Pale-bellied Hermit (marked PBH). At about 3 kilometres the track passes a large water pump, apparently supplying El Real. Riverine forest after here produced Double-banded Greytail, White-eared Conebill and Black Antshrike (marked DBG, CB, BA on map). Black Oropendola appears to be the least common of the three oropendola species which occur. Single birds were seen on four occasions in widely spaced areas. Interestingly, all were within forest cover, and none were seen in open areas.
Species recorded from El Real:
Great Tinamou h |
Spot-breasted Woodpecker 3 Lineated Woodpecker c Buff-throated Woodcreeper 4 Streak-headed Woodcreeper 5+ Slaty Spinetail 5+h Double-banded Greytail 3 Plain Xenops 1 Great Antshrike 8+ Black Antshrike 6+ Chestnut-backed Antbird 10+ Purple Fruitcrow 4 White-ruffed Manakin 2+ Southern Beardless Tyrannulet 2 Lesser Elaenia 1 Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrant 3+ Yellow-margined Flycatcher 4 Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher 3 Black-tailed Flycatcher 1 Long-tailed Tyrant 1 Panama Flycatcher 3 Tropical Kingbird c Boat-billed Flycatcher 3 Streaked Flycatcher 4 Social Flycatcher c Lesser Kiskadee 5+ Cinnamon Becard 4 White-winged Becard 1 Cinereous Becard 1 Masked Tityra 8 Black-chested Jay 10+ Black-bellied Wren 5+ Buff-breasted wren 5 House Wren 4 White-breasted Wood-Wren 2h White-browed Gnatcatcher 3 Grey-breasted Martin 2 Southern Rough-winged Swallow 20+ Barn Swallow 4 Yellow Warbler 5 Chestnut-sided Warbler 4 Mourning Warbler 1 Bananaquit c White-eared Conebill 1+ White-shouldered Tanager 2 Crimson-backed Tanager 8 Blue-grey Tanager 7 Plain-coloured Tanager 8 Blue Dacnis 5+ Red-legged Honeycreeper 10 Blue-black Grassquit c Variable Seedeater c Thick-billed Seedeater 2 Buff-throated Saltator c Crested Oropendola c Black Oropendola 4 Yellow-rumped Cacique 2 Yellow-billed Cacique 3 Yellow-backed Oriole c Orchard Oriole 3 Red-breasted Meadowlark 15+ Shining Cowbird 2 Giant Cowbird 5 |
Madden Lake and Summit Gardens Area
The area around Madden Lake, half way between Panama City and Colon, was visited to attempt to locate the endemic Yellow-green Tyrannulet. Having no specific directions we tried various roadside areas and were successful near the dam. Two roads cross the Chagres river; the main Highway 3, and a secondary road to its east which runs along the top of the dam. Driving northward, as one crosses the dam the road curves sharply to the left and there is a pull-in on the left where visitors can obtain a spectacular view across the slipway (see map). Park and explore the trees along the road and down a paved track to the right of the pull-in. This tiny tyrannulet is unfortunately a canopy species, but has a very distinctive habit of flicking its wings alternately over its back.
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Another interesting site of patchy forest, grassland and ponds is found near Summit Gardens. This small area can be explored in a few hours and is good for a variety of birds, including Rosy Thrush-Tanager. It was the only place I saw White-bellied Antbird. It is one of the few canal zone forests one can walk in without a permit. Take Highway 3 north of Panama City. At 7.2 kilometres past the Chiva Chiva road a wrecked building is seen on the right. |
Opposite, a wide track can be walked, which leads, after 1-2 kilometres, to the road by the Police Academy. Alternatively to walk the other way around, continue to 7.7 kilometres past Chiva Chiva road and take the Old Gamboa road (signposted to Summit Gardens). After a further 1.5 kilometres Summit Gardens (a good birding spot) entrance is seen on the right. Take the turning on the left, cross the railway line and at after 400 metres turn left at the T-junction. Another 200 metres and the road ends where you can park next to some concrete blocks between two ponds.
Species recorded from Summit Gardens:
Little Blue Heron 1 |
Common Tody-Flycatcher 2 Southern Beardless Tyrannulet 2 Black-tailed Flycatcher 1 Tropical Kingbird c Lesser Greenlet 2 Clay-coloured Thrush 2 Rufous-and-white Wren 2 Buff-breasted Wren 4 Grey-breasted Martin 2 Tennessee Warbler 1 Orange-billed Sparrow 2 Rosy Thrush-Tanager 4+ Red-throated Ant-Tanager 4+ Crimson-backed Tanager 4 Blue-grey Tanager c Plain-coloured Tanager 4 Red-legged Honeycreeper 4+ Blue-black Grassquit c Variable Seedeater c Thick-billed Seed Finch 2 Dickcissel 1 Streaked Saltator c |
Additional Notes for Species and Sites
With only three weeks in Panama it was not possible to visit all the sites required to have a chance to find all of the speciality species. Below follows a few notes for species not covered above. Additionally, notes are provided for a few other important sites.
Brown-backed Dove. This Red Data Book species is restricted to the Pacific lowlands of the Azuero Peninsula. I have no information on where one might look for it, and given the habitat destruction that has taken place, this bird is only likely to be found in protected areas now. Presumably it occurs in Montuoso Forest Reserve, Cerro Hoya National Park etc. All these areas are difficult to access. It likely can also be found on Coiba Island if one could get there. Presumably it occurs on Isla Cébaco, which is accessible, if habitat still remains.
Coiba Spinetail. Endemic to Coiba Island. The possibilities to visit this island are unclear. According to locals I asked, Coiba is an open penal colony and unsafe to visit. Conversely, I have read that it is possible for boats to visit, though no accommodation is available, but that the area which can be explored is very limited. More information required.
Speckled Antshrike. A scarce Red Data Book species restricted to eastern Panama and extreme northwestern Colombia. The only reliable spot in Panama appears to be the Nusagandí (Nature Lodge) 100 kilometres northeast of Panama City. Visiting arrangements must be made in advance (last address: PEMASKY office, Box 2012 Paraiso, Ancon). The road, once past Chepo, is in poor condition and generally only passable in the dry season. Check first with locals.
'Escudo' Hummingbird. The handleyi form of the Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, restricted to Escudo de Veraguas Island (off Bocas del Toro coast of northern Panama) is rather distinctive, and could well be distinct.
'Veraguan' Mango. The veraguensis form of the Green-breasted Mango is disjunct from other groups in the A. prevostii complex, differs in lacking any black on the underparts, and may be distinct. Confined to Pacific coast from Chiriquí to Coclé. Fairly common around David City.
Many other sites, not visited by myself, are open to birders visiting Panama. A good descriptive overview is provided in Ridgely and Gwynne (1989), though some of the details of access are likely to be out of date. Other than this, and the even older Toucan references, I could find no recent reports or articles with maps/directions. Most reports found were merely species lists. A few interesting areas are listed below:
Fortuna. The paved road over the continental divide, via Fortuna, to Chiriquí Grande is an excellent birding area. Finca la Suiza on the Pacific side, 15-20 kilometres before the Fortuna Lake, makes a good base, and has its own bird list. The upper sections of the road, across the divide, protect the watershed, and are still heavily forested. Bare-necked Umbrella-bird occurs, but is an elevational migrant. Further over the Caribbean side the forest is more secondary, but does hold both cotingas. This is in general a very good area for Blue-and-gold Tanager.
Tropic Star Lodge. This, primarily fishing, lodge is promisingly situated near the Colombia border on the Pacific coast, and has extensive lowland forest. The area was visited by Martin Reid and Wilberto Martinez on 3-5 June, 1995. Although intact the forest appears not to have the diversity of that found further inland. Species of note (for the area) included; Tiny Hawk, Green-crowned Woodnymph, Spot-crowned Barbet, Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrant, Blue Cotinga, Black-tipped Cotinga, Golden-crowned Manakin and Purple Honeycreeper.
National Parks of Panama
Volcan Barú National Park, Chiriquí Province. (14,000 hectares).
Contains the dormant Barú volcano, the highest point in Panama (3,475 m.). Home to a variety of endemic plants at well as Resplendent Quetzal. The nearest accommodation can be found at Boquete and Cerro Punta. The road from Volcan to Santa Clara has small sections of remnant forest. Turquoise Cotinga occurs, as does Zeledon's Tyrannulet, Fiery-billed Aracari and Magenta-throated Woodstar.
Bastimentos Island Marine National Park, Bocas del Toro Province. (13,226 hectares).
Can be accessed directly by flight or road then ferry. Hotels on the islands of Colon, Almirante and Changuinola. Protects the coastal and marine ecosystems of the Bocas del Toro archipelago. This park has pristine white sand beaches, snorkelling and diving on the coral reefs. Three species of marine turtles nest on the beaches and the waters have breeding manatees.
Coiba Island National Park, Veraguas Province (270,125 hectares).
A one-hour charter flight, or 4-hour drive to Puerto Mutis then 3 to 6 hours by boat. No accommodation.
Contains a variety of coastal and marine ecosystems, as well as beautiful scenery.
El Cope Division General Park, Coclé Province (6,000 hectares).
Accommodation at Penonome and Aguadulce. This park on the central dividing range is a cloud forest reserve protecting the watersheds of the Bermejo, Marta, Blanco, Guabal and Lajas rivers.
Cerro Hoya National Park, Veraguas and Los Santos provinces. (32,557 hectares)
Accommodation at Las Tablas, Santiago de Veraguas and Chitre. Remote and difficult to access. Primarily protects more than 30 endemic plant species.
Sarigua National Park, Herrera Province (8,000 hectares).
Accommodation at Chitre and Villa de los Santos. Protects a unique tropical desert and an important 11,000-year-old archaeological site.
Soberania National Park, Panama and Colon provinces (22,104 hectares)
Accommodation only in Panama City. Protects the watershed of the Panama Canal.
Chagres National Park. Panama and Colon provinces (129,000 hectares)
Accommodation at either Panama City or Colon. Also protects the watershed of the Panama Canal. It supplies most of the water needed for the canal to function and is also the principal water source for Panama City.
Darién National Park, Darién Province. (579,000 hectares).
See details under Cana above.
Section 1 - Introduction, logistics, itinerary and general information.
Section 2 - Birding sites (part 1).
Section 3 - Birding sites (part 2).
Section 5 - Annotated checklist.